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Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 10:59 pm
by JohnK1
Hi Guys,

I experience with some hot end problem too. Actually what happened to me during the printing of ABS (@ 250 ºC) - the hot end got pushed out of the peek separator and the thread in the insulator is gone. Not sure what caused this problem. May be some dirt in filament? I just wonder if my prior manual extrusion wasn't too fast? I usually run manual things via my computer, but this time I used the small LCD control panel. Does any body know if is it possible to slow the manual extrusion? It say one click = 1mm - but the speed seems to be a bit faster?
I got a bar of a peek material and now thinking how it could work best. Would some partially open version with air gaps between hot end and cooler work better? I have just put two fans 30x30 instad of original one (40x40) for cooling of top part and also to cool the peek.
Btw guys- how can I set a time period for "Kill" ? :)

Cheers

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:34 pm
by viljmak
Zennix wrote:Hi,
My solution:
I drilled the coldend completely through with 4mm. Drilled the PEEK with 5mm. So the cold- and hotend has a defined stop and a distance of 2,5mm. Machined a Teflon tube like saamec did, but with 4mm tube and 5mm spacer.
Now after hours of printing I´m sure to post this as my working solutions.
Thanks to saamec for the idea.
Hi Zennix,
Thanks for idea. I made the same for both extruders and have used those some time already (PA,ABS,PVA). Works fine, no clogging, no oozing at all and even 15 mm retract works without problem. Made all parts new, now I know also how to make spares if needed. PTFE insert is little tricky to do but works well. Important point is, as you told, hotend close against PEEK not only PTFE.
I think Felix should make this construction as a standard.

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 12:43 pm
by neilv
I have the same problem, i don't understand the solution. There are no more pictures in this post.
Can anybody explain the solution in simple steps to me please! (a person with little experience with the felix 3D 3.0.)



(sorry for my bad english)

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 10:14 am
by Zennix
Hi,
find in the attachment the drawing for the teflon tube.
To mount it, you have to drill the PEEK with 5mm and the coldend completly with 4mm.
At the upper end of the tube, I designed a phase that the material easier find its´s way into the tube.

Greetings / Zennix

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 3:45 pm
by neilv
Thanks , I 'll try.

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 8:31 pm
by Hugues
Zennix wrote:Hi,
find in the attachment the drawing for the teflon tube.
To mount it, you have to drill the PEEK with 5mm and the coldend completly with 4mm.
At the upper end of the tube, I designed a phase that the material easier find its´s way into the tube.

Greetings / Zennix
thanks a lot for the drawing, very clear.

I can drill my cold end and PEEK, but i cannot machine the teflon tube. Would you consider selling some ? I'm sure others are interested to buy on this forum .

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 8:37 pm
by neilv
I'm interested!

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:24 pm
by frankjoke
Check out this: http://www.moddiy.com/products/High-Qua ... D%29-.html

I ordered some and use it instead of the Felix 4mm ones. I will test to drill a hotend as well...

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 7:10 pm
by Hugues
frankjoke wrote:Check out this: http://www.moddiy.com/products/High-Qua ... D%29-.html

I ordered some and use it instead of the Felix 4mm ones. I will test to drill a hotend as well...
i did buy a teflon tube and tried to machine it, but it turned out to be quite poor quality.

I believe in specialisation of work, better be specialist in a few tasks and trade among ourselves :lol:

Re: Hotend jams - not blocked

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:25 am
by viljmak
The PTFE part is tricky but possible to make if you have use of small lathe (and some tools). dia. 6 mm solid PTFE bar is good to start at and easily available. Description of work steps needed is quite long story but if somebody is interested I'll write how managed to make parts that works well.