My bed temperature does not go above 90°

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frankjoke
Posts: 150
Joined: Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:07 pm

My bed temperature does not go above 90°

Post by frankjoke »

I first time tried ABS and found I should print with bed at ~100°C.

Itried to get there but the printer stops around 90°.

Is there a way to check is this is a technical problem or is it just a limitation?

I bough printer (Felix 3.0 Dual) last month, just did not print >60° before with PLA.

Frank

Tim
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Dec 22, 2013 4:31 am

Post by Tim »

I was just going to post a similar question, I was trying to print ABS and found I can't get the bed temperature above about 88C. In the specifications it says it can go to 115C with bed isolation. Can someone please tell me how to get the bed temp to 115C?

Either that or some secret on how to get ABS to stick to a lower bed temperature?

fred
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:54 pm
Location: Köln,Paris

Post by fred »

Hi zusammen,
I m a beginner and try as well to find out the same solutions. ABS oder other materials doesn´t stick well. so I did an experiment: 2 side rubber and it function well with a bed only 30 grad and 240 grad filament heating. Use as well brim in the Slic3r software. in the I use this for every materials. The big problem is to unstick the part. Warming the bed help to unstick. I m looking forward to fix an other plate up the primary bed. Unstick the tape is hard and cause damage to the bed screws. I turn up 2 screw to permanent bolts for the too in the back.the middle rest as it what.But the best is maybe to fix a secondary plate on the primary plate and at printing end removing the secondary plate to unstick the part.But for sure everywhere people say you must warm. so my experiment are maybe wrong . This is not a tip but a experiment. I m interesting about your other solutions. see pictures. Gruß. Bonne chance. good luck.
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seaton
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Post by seaton »

Tim wrote:I was just going to post a similar question, I was trying to print ABS and found I can't get the bed temperature above about 88C. In the specifications it says it can go to 115C with bed isolation. Can someone please tell me how to get the bed temp to 115C?

Either that or some secret on how to get ABS to stick to a lower bed temperature?
I use simple insulation, a piece of cardboard cut to the size of the base plate and taped on with Kapton. I did remove all the screws first and cut holes where they go, then put screws and washers on so clamps the cardboard to the bed, also cut a slot for the heater wires etc and then taped it all up after. I have no problem getting up to 115 and printing ABS. The cardboard I used is just a thin piece from the box of a new kitchen appliance I was going to throw out, it light so doesn't impact on the Y-Axis movement.

Stephen...
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
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satoer
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Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

I also insulated the bottom of the heat bed. But I didn't like the idea of using cardboard on a heating device that can get 100+ degrees. although the auto ignition temperature of cardboard is 427 degrees, the coating on the cardboard might lower it.

I used a bit more heat resistant material. I used a Ironing table cover sleeve. But I don't go above 75 degrees. 75 degrees is suitable for me for printing ABS on a glass plate with Pritt power glue stick. Also another + is that the bed is way faster on temperature.
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frankjoke
Posts: 150
Joined: Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:07 pm

Post by frankjoke »

Thanks for the tip, Satoer!

I bought (in shop) Leifheit 72138, usually a 120x80cm sheet to iron on normal table.

I cut out a peace which fits below the bed with holes for the levelers and heating and glued it on the bottom side of the bed.

Now I can get close to 100° which was OK to print my first ABS successfully.
From back
From back
From front.
From front.

felix GH
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Nov 09, 2013 4:44 pm

Post by felix GH »

I also closed with kapton tape the openings of the wafer board since the 2.0 has the openings going in the Y direction and I'm using a 1mm Ultem sheet for PLA (55C) and ABS at (75C), for larger prints in ABS I also mix and apply some ABS juice. Works and yes I changed my parts to ABS on my 2.0.

frankjoke
Posts: 150
Joined: Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:07 pm

Post by frankjoke »

GH,

can you tell us more on "1mm Ultem sheet"?

What are the specifics and where did you get it from?

I use http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0002S4CRM on top of Kapton for PLA & ABS. For EcoFlex & Ninja I use the basic Kapton.

osta2
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:31 pm

Post by osta2 »

The "cardboard trick" is definitely working, thank you for sharing! 87 degrees tops before and 102 degrees after :) Why make users do such tricks is another question. Some kind of insulation should be standard if the heating bed can not perform properly without it.

vyndalin
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 3:46 pm

Post by vyndalin »

frankjoke wrote:...
I cut out a peace which fits below the bed with holes for the levelers and heating and glued it on the bottom side of the bed...
Did you glued it straight on the bed? Without kapton or any tape? And what kind of glue did you used?
Thanks a lot

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