new Felix problems

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dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Re: new Felix problems

Post by dognotdog »

Sounds like you do have dirt in the nozzle. To prevent that in the first place, you need wipe the dust off the filament where it enters the print head. Most people seem to recommend a piece of sponge that the filament is fed through. It's what I use, too, and it seems to work well. I've found that foam used for packaging is not suitable, though.

For cleaning, the best way for me is to push some filament through, manually, at normal extrusion temperature, until a bit comes out of the nozzle, then let the nozzle cool to room temperature, then heating it again up to 70-80°C, and pulling the filament back out. If everything goes well, you should be able to pull all the filament out, and with it all the dirt up to the tip of the nozzle.

hvdd
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:43 pm

Post by hvdd »

that about what i have done, and reducing the printspeed to 80%
now everything is normal again.
in fact reading the faq at the end of the manual helps also ..... tips and tricks...
thanks

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

I have had similar issues many times. At first cleaning the nozzle seemed to help but not any more. I'm beginning to think my issues are not due to dirt in the nozzle but some setting in slicer. What I have is perfect vertical walls but "fabric like" horizontal surfaces. In other words the outer wall of part is usually just perfect with absolutely no imperfections but when there is a horizontal surface (like top of a cube for example) the extruded filament strands get REALLY narrow and vary in width. At some points there's virtually nothing visible even if there should be even coat of extruded plastic. Moving 5mm from that point perpendicular to extruder movement there's perfect surface again. It's hard to explain, and all I have is the lousy picture attached to this message.

There is three solid layers on the horizontal surfaces of the parts in the picture. As seen, all the surfaces have quite visible banding where filament width varies between normal and almost non-existent. When perpendicular layers are stacked they form the grid patter seen especially in the X shaped part.
Attachments
Problems on the horizontal surface
Problems on the horizontal surface

hvdd
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:43 pm

Post by hvdd »

hoi,
after one week of testing and printing some idea's
would it not be wise to start a topic and exchange parameters and settings between users ?
i use repetier host 0.82 (installed today)
always use SFACT for slicing with standard settings.
white PLA wire, wire holder on top of printer as described on this forum without bearings.
extruder temp at 200° did some tests on 210° no difference ??
table at 65°
speed at 70% - at 100 % and large pieces i have some gaps by filling.
table cleaned each time with aceton.
removing pieces from table of bed no problem af cooling bed to 30°

what we have printed ?
raspberry housing ( small board computer) quality very good -
automatic transmission model http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34778
quite a big project to start !!!!!
some parts we had to redo - failed because no wire feed.
quality of parts good but can be better. some parts feeling soft if pressed - infill not good i think.
things to do :
absolutely the wire must be mounted on a ball bearing system - les friction for extruder stepper
test with the slicer to improve print quality.

the box with controller and wiring is a little bit to small to fit all the stuff.
i will draw a additional part to fit on top of the existing box - 3 cm high then it can be closed.

rgds

hvdd
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:43 pm

Post by hvdd »

is there any difference in wire ?
with the white PLA it is ok, but change color to black and the extruded line on the bed seems
a lot smaller? the first layer is not fully filled - with the same settings as the white wire.
temp 200°, speed 50 - normal quality

dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Post by dognotdog »

There is definitely differences. With tha black PLA, i seem go get extruder jams more often than white or green PLA. I haven't noticed any change in flowrate, though. Maybe your bed just wasn't calibrated the same?

matteej
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:09 pm
Location: Netherlands
Contact:

Post by matteej »

Could it be possible that the problem is as simple as adjusting the z-calibrator height? It's a delicate part, that can easily shift when you accidentally touch is. When I had my extruder set too far away from the bed i got similar results as hvdd in his post from Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:06 am

also: funny that we both printed both a raspberry pi house and auto transmission model (I printed the long shaft standing up)

hvdd
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:43 pm

Post by hvdd »

after playing a weekend with black PLA a put again the white one in place....
adjusting mechanical calibration, playing with temp and speed , i do'nt see it.
the 2 major problems .
first layer and other layers the lines are so fine on the bed that they almost not touching each other ...
after printing one hour or more - no more wire is coming out of the extruder ( internally blocked ??)
if i pull out the wire ( arrow up) at the beginning i see a big(ger) dot of wire melted, the wire is not passing though the head,
it seems the head is to warm , but lowering the temp did not solve the problem ( temp set at 190°)

changing to white color without changing any settings - prints are ok.
will do some tests tomorrow with red PLA

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Try to put the cooler on top blowing the upper part of the hot end on 12v in stead of 5v. It will keep the top metal part of the hot end cooler. So less chance of soft fillament between the top hot end and the plastic peek jamming.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

hvdd
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:43 pm

Post by hvdd »

after printing some things in the last days, today each print fails ...
printing well for the first 10 or 20 minutes and then the wire stucks in the printhead.
retract the wire - cut small part clean head and restart -no settings changed - same problem.
the printer is not working for a few hours - still connected and i see the head temp at 8, 9°C and table at 23°C
no ventilator running - so headtemp sensor not working ??? should be at 23 like the table
Attachments
temp_kop.JPG

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