ABS De-lamination on Large print

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seaton
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Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
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ABS De-lamination on Large print

Post by seaton »

G'day one and all,

ABS is my filament of choice and have had wonderful success with it over the last 18months, however I'm having a hard time on a large print that is delaminating. I'm not having any problems with print warping or lifting, HotBed is sitting at 105DegC and works great with some gluStik on it it works well and is staying put, just the layer delimitation is causing me grief.

Unfortunately I can't print this item in PLA as its going in an area that ambient Temp will be no good for PLA.

The print jobs is a large one, approx 27hours and is for a vent, so far is failing about 12 hours in, twice, which is very frustrating.


Things I've done so far and failed:

Increased my hot end temp to 235DegC
Build Shroud around part via simplify3D

Things I'm about to try:

somehow physically enclose the Felix - Any Ideas that is cheap and easy?
Try printing without cooling fans off
possibly Redirect Hotend fan exhaust away from print area?

so any other tips gratefully accepted.

Regards,

Stephen...
Attachments
vent7.jpg
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

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DDME-Marc
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Location: New Zealand

Post by DDME-Marc »

Hi Stephen,

My experience with de-lamination was resolved with running at increased and constant temperature.

The temperature of 235 sounds low for ABS?

Apart from increasing temperature and reducing fan speed (or turning off) I would suggest also printing a perimeter wall to aid temperature control (space permitting of course).

Cheers,

Marc
Felix 3.0 Dual Head * E3D Titan V6 * Repetier-Host V2.1.3 * Repetier-Firmware 0.92.9 (01/08/17 - Modified) * KISSlicer Pro - 1.6.3 * Arduino 1.8.5 *

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
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Post by seaton »

DDME-Marc wrote:Hi Stephen,

My experience with de-lamination was resolved with running at increased and constant temperature.

The temperature of 235 sounds low for ABS?

Apart from increasing temperature and reducing fan speed (or turning off) I would suggest also printing a perimeter wall to aid temperature control (space permitting of course).

Cheers,

Marc
Thanks Marc,

Yes I think its the constant temperature thats the problem with the open frame of the Felix, but how to mitigate it is the question.

I normally print at 215-220 with the current brand of ABS I'm getting in Australia and have always had very good results. I see from a bit of research that ABS can be anywhere from 210-250 so I guess milage will vary. I may try going even higher.

Both my failed prints were with my fans on, so next will be trying with a double wall perimeter (so it doesn't fall over (like last one) and no fans, failing that I'm going to have to try enclosing the felix somehow, maybe just a cardboard box if I can find one big enough, but am concerned about overheating electronics.

I will also try with less infill as was requested that it be at 100%, although not a solid object it's a vent with 3mm thick walls so will see if it make a difference


Stephen...
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

osta2
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:31 pm

Post by osta2 »

They made a heated closed print chamber for a reason (in some fancy expensive printers) :) But if printer's design was not made for using a heated chamber, enclosing and additional heating of the motors and electronics will definitely cause them to overheat.

I had better results with ABS after cranking the temperature beyond 250 (E3D V6 extruder) and using thin layers (100-150 microns) and more perimeters (3+).

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