not printing right

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evanr
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 3:09 am

Re: not printing right

Post by evanr »

Ok, thanks again.

I re-adjusted the pot-meters and did about 15 test prints.
Thought the motors were overheating, so I took off the pads for the heat sinks and replaceD with cooling paste (provided in kit).

Eventually, I got frustrated and just set it at approx. 25% like stated in the manual. I understand clock wise more power/counter less power... but I'm still not completely familiar with what is considered 'properly tuned' based on motor function, not print.

Should I turn power up on the pot-meter just slightly so it doesn't skip anymore?
Should I turn power down on the pot-meter just slightly so it doesn't over heat?

Maybe you can you help me figure it out this way...... based on my recent print/picture what could it mean when the build layers are not horizontal/straight as in the pictures. It is more pronounced on the Y-Axis.
Attachments
Y-AXIS OF 40X10 TEST PART - BOTH SIDES -
Y-AXIS OF 40X10 TEST PART - BOTH SIDES -

dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Post by dognotdog »

The "heat paste" you use for the heatbed is not good for the stepper drivers, as it only works well when the radiator is pressed onto the driver chips. Try to find some 2 component "thermal adhesive", like arctic silver or arctic alumina, and use that.

That being said, the little radiators only have little, though sometimes just enough, effect. When the stepper stops in intervals, that usually means the driver is overheating and shutting down temporarily (too much current). If it rattles, that usually means the motor is skipping steps (too little current). Sometimes the printing nozzle also runs into curled-up parts of the printed objects, which can also cause momentary step-loss. However, if the steppers have enough power, it can power through most such obstacles. The goal is thus: high enough current not lose steps, but low enough not to overheat the driver.

You also seem to have issues with the nozzle being contaminated, clean it! Also, put a sponge on filament feed, etc, to prevent dust from accumulating in the nozzle.

evanr
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 3:09 am

Post by evanr »

Thanks dognotdog.

Everything was printing great.... then another issue.

2nd hour of 7, printer just stops and is no longer responsive.

I had to kill the job, tried to re-connect and I got the message:
Unauthorized access to com port

..... I could also mention,
every day I start the printer and try to connect,
I always have to reset the printer board a few times before I can take control.

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Have you put the USB directly into the computer? Or a hub?
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

evanr
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 3:09 am

Post by evanr »

USB is directly plugged into laptop

evanr
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 3:09 am

Post by evanr »

I figured the problem was an IRQ conflict with another device
OR
another device was trying to access the same com port as the printer.

... disconnected a few things and things have been ok.
But I'm not convinced the problem is resolved, yet.

Anyways, I did a tune but I still seem to have some grinding (rough noises) from what seems to be comming from when the Y or Z axis moves really quickly when printing.
... one of those quick moves to get the extruder to the other side of the part.

I can't figure where its coming from.
I even added a bit of oil on the sliders but that rough noise is still there.

Any ideas?

dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Post by dognotdog »

Sounds like step loss to me.

evanr
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 3:09 am

Post by evanr »

I wouldn't have guessed step loss.
If it is, would I give the X/Y pot-meter more power or less?

I had to cancel a 48hr print yesterday after 12hrs of printing.
The grinding of the axis seems to happen when the extruder head tip moves across the part scraping the support and material. I would think the Z-axis would drop .1mm or so to prevent this and then go back up to resume printing?

The part also had some warp starting even though the Bed temperature was 65C and I used acetone to wipe the Bed clean.

I'm not having much luck here... it seems to be different problem every time I use the printer.

I have a tradeshow March 1st and need to have parts done by mid February.
I hope I don't have to sell the printer to pay for someone else to make parts!

help needed

frustrating.

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

A 48 hr print? that's a big project. small object should stick without a problem. If you have bigger parts, I also had some warp problems. And if the object is warping, it bends up hitting the extruder. Use a large raft bed to print large objects.

Have you read my tutorial to resume failing prints? (although if it begins to warp it's probably a loss). If you manage to print it with some warping, its possible to bend it back if you submerge the object in hot water and after that press it on a flat plate.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

evanr
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 3:09 am

Post by evanr »

yes I agree, 48hr print sounds a bit much.
I have to set it to 100x speed just to get it down to 19hrs.... its going warp speed now :o) .... printing as I write this.

FYI, my Dimension 768 would have printed the part in about 8hrs. So, what am I doing wrong?

- Also, I set the layer height to .1mm but the print doesn't come out like the printed parts on the printer, even if I set the speed at 50.
- the part that is printing right now, I can see the extruder is scraping across the support when it needs to get to the other side of the part..... the support is slightly being ripped off the Bed. I can see a streak/line across the freshly printed material from the Extruder tip.
- "SATOER: Use a large raft bed to print large objects". What is a Raft Bed?

Extruder tip is 1 paper thickness from Bed, seems good.

Thanks for the tip on the hot water for part warp, makes sense.

The filament got jammed yesterday and wasn't extruding anymore, so I stopped it when I noticed it was a few layers above and not depositing material.

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