Common problems/Tips and tricks

Moderator: speedake95

Post Reply
Makron
Posts: 110
Joined: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:29 pm

Re: Common problems/Tips and tricks

Post by Makron »

It means the hot end is not hot enough to exturde.

gobi
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:05 pm
Location: Hungary

Post by gobi »

i'm printing at 60% speed and the extruder is supposed to be heated up to 200 degC but instead it jumps between 175-200degC and it never done this. it's printing fine at the moment but i have around 3 hours left and i don't want it to stop -

- edit - i just added the M302 command into the g-code. will this solve this problem for good or there may be something else?
- edit2 - ok, the machine just stopped. i'll try to fix the problem but if anyone has an idea, please share

13:49:17.188 : Error:0
13:49:17.188 : : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
13:49:17.188 : Error:Printer stopped deu to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting)
13:49:57.133 : Error:No Checksum with line number, Last Line:64
13:49:57.133 : Resend:65

this is the error message i'm getting. i cant heat the hotend and cant move the axis-s.

dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Post by dognotdog »

gobi, looks like the thermistor in the hot-end is broken, or at least a wiring problem.

killejano
Posts: 92
Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:23 pm

Post by killejano »

Swap you thermistor connectors with the one in the heated bed. If the problem moves too, your thermistor is most likely fried. Did you get a spare in your set?

gobi
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:05 pm
Location: Hungary

Post by gobi »

i have to wait until tomorrow to look at it that closely - not really qualified to mess around with the electronics...
but thanks for the tips guys

gobi
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:05 pm
Location: Hungary

Post by gobi »

hi all, just one quick question. is the thermistor the same on the felix 1.5 and the 2.0? cause in the webshop there's only one and since i dont have a spare one i need to know -

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Yep.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

gobi
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:05 pm
Location: Hungary

Post by gobi »

ok, hotend+thermistor swap, everything works good. time to bring the bed closer to the hotend - (:

Starwatcher22
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon May 20, 2013 8:17 am

Post by Starwatcher22 »

Hi Guillaume,

this is such a great summary - well done !
Maybe you could add photos of the print issues as well?

Brgds

Winfried

twicx
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:26 pm

Post by twicx »

So today I had a go at using Blue Painters Tape instead of kapton tape. Here's some questions that I'd imagine might come up regarding my use of it.

1. So you used 3M Blue Painters Tape on your printbed instead of kapton tape?
This is correct.

2. There's a lot of different Blue Painters Tape in my local supplier, could you be more specific?
Certainly.
Image

3. Oh that one! Now I know what you mean. Why did you decide to use it?
Well people have tried this out on 3d printers quite a bit, with some varying results. I seem to get varying degrees of stickyness with my prints. Up till now I've been using kapton + hairspray to make it stick and avoid curling, but sometimes it sticks too much, and cleaning when you use hairspray is a pain. This seemed like a simpler solution. Put on the tape, nothing else, and print. Plus, a roll of blue tape is a lot cheaper than a roll of kapton, and on a personal level, I use it a lot for sticking drawings to my desk, as an architecture student. It's like a better version of masking tape.

4. Is it blue?
Yes. Very.

5. So how did it compare to using Kapton + Hairspray
I printed a piece on production high density quality that measured approx 40mm x 80mm x 25mm. There was no curling and the piece stuck down very nicely. It came away easily once the bed had cooled back down to room temperature. The other advantage I can see is that it's more forgiving when you actually put it on the bed. It covers over the screw marks very nicely, and it's less susceptible to getting little air-bubbles caught in it. On top of that, most suppliers will stock a variety of thicknesses. Unfortunately, they're all in inches, which bothers me a little, cos I'm a metric man.

6. Did you have to replace it after 1 print?
I don't think so. I can see that the tape has a few little ripples in it where the part was, probably from the heat concentration, but once the part was removed, there's no sign of the print being there, other than the little ripples. The ripples smooth out though once you smooth it out again.

7. But hang on a second, many people are switching to using glass on their printbed, which doesn't need any tapes. Why don't I just do that?
I can't really comment on that, as I haven't used glass on my bed before. It is something I probably will try in the future, but not right now.

8. Any other benefits worth noting?
Apart from what I've mentioned above, the other slight advantage is that when you're putting it on the bed, it just tears with your hand, like a piece of normal masking does. This way, you don't have to be fiddling around with a scissors or scalpel when you're putting the tape on the bed. I think it's an easier solution to kapton, and seems to work well so far.

Post Reply