Arnitel

[rad]

And there you have it, nothing to do with bad thermistors or underspec'ed

They are NOT designed to withstand water and even less, thermal shocks from water and heat, that produces small cracks in the ceramic, and as you might already know, that changes the resistance and results in what you are experiencing.

Yes but the extruder that I used was dry. Next to that it's sealed with silicon the cpasle itself and the silicon I put on it.
It it hold 10 hours without the slightest problem. If water were inside it had destroyed it very rapied not in 10hours.

[1]From B57560G104F datsheet page 12: "Cleaning agents based on water are not allowed."

can you link me that datasheet?
The one I have stops at page 6. -> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/102485.pdf
there is no remarks about water not allowed.

I have bought exatcly that one with the glass body threated it all the same way and not the slightest sign of any instability.
So my one doesnt crack the capsle one does. Then I prefer my one.

[Lioric]

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/136/Glass_en ... -73062.pdf

[rad]

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/136/Glass_en ... -73062.pdf

Thank you.

[Hugues]

...
the last 2 months ( printing almost every day or night and in different colors) i did'nt have to do it anymore.
just change in the softwaresettings retract to 0.5 and problem solved ....

Hi,

newbie here, made my first print yesterday. I did not experience jamming yet but i guess i could use your trick to pre-empt this form happening.

Just to be sure: where do you set this to 0.5 ?
i see in my manual control window on repetier host a retract value that can be set at 1mm (lowest), default is 10mm.
Not sure what this parameter does actually.
Or is it somwhere else in the slicer menus ?

thanks for your guidance

[Makron]

Retraction Distance in dimension tab.

[hvdd]

hoi,
yes , this entry is used while printing.
but at the end of the print session go see in the gcodelist
G1 E-10 F2000
retraction 10mm , change this to
G1 E-1 F2000 ; retraction of 1mm.
to be done each time after the slicer part.
result will be , the hot pla filament will only be retracted for 1mm and will not go above the isolator.

my procedure:
for the next printjob.
heat up extruder.
stop motor
push manually a few cm through the extruder and check the flew .....
after slicing change the gcode
start printing
good luck !

[WayneMc]

Unfortunately this is my experience as well. I got a couple of great prints from the Arnitel and then the problems started. Have tried hotter and colder. The material seems to jam in the top half of the extruder. It bunches up between the nut and the top of the extruder. This then jams the material in both directions.

I have put the fan on 12v and have milled fin fans into the extruder to increase the cooling. Will post pictures. There is something else going on though as I now cannot get a good print from PLA either. The material strings across the inside of any circle I print. It used to work perfectly. My parts needed no finishing after printing. Now they do not even stick together. I fear my beautiful printer is ruined. I have restored everything I can to original settings to no avail. It all extrudes if I manually extrude to fill the nozzle etc. No problems there. Once I start printing it goes great for a couple of perimeters and then the flow halves and it starts milling entire sections. Not sure what to try next. Will fit my spare new extruder and see if this helps.

On the upside I now get much better cooling in the top end.

[gobi]

all my arnitel and flexible tries failed so far but today - the water broke. i printed the little snake off of thingiverse, feeling pretty good right about now (:
slow print, 60% speed, 250 extruder speed, 205 degrees C with a 100% flowrate, 0.2 mm: