Makron Hacks and Upgrades.

[Makron]

I have a felix 1.5 for i think 2 months now , ordered it at rapid pro fare because it looked and is the best
I got the DIY kit and built it in a weekend.

Everything went very good and the first print came out perfect.

But with bigger prints i had the problem that the bed was bend and that gave the problem that the nozzle was to far away from it at some point , plus there were the bolts in the table the holes were not deep enough so they would stick out a bit where the nozzle hit some.

So i made a new bed , i am a cnc miller/turner so that was not a problem.



I have put the resistors a bit more to the middle.



This works very well very flat and the filament sticks to the bed very good.

But then i started to get problems with the hot end filament getting stuck al the time (in witch im not the only one).
With al the cleaning i bloke my hot ends hole and the resistor.

So i ordered a new resistor from felix , and decided to make a new hot end out of brass with 0.3mm hole , make the peek a little longer and make the alu part with cool ribs that looks like this.






This works also very well , hot end has not been cleaned for 2 weeks now printing with different colors.
I have the idea that brass works better than alu for some reason.

Then i came with a problem that with large prints the wire of the heated bed would come on the fan that is above the board stopping the fan getting the exrtuder not working properly , skipping steps or something. took me a while to figure that out .

So i made a simple fan guard for it.



Last thing i made that looks very sweet i think is a lamp from thingiverse.



Next thing i want to do is make a cool z-axis like in the felix 2.0

Sorry for my bad English

Hope you like it , Ivo.

[hvdd]

hoi,
well done , very nice !

[satoer]

Wow that heat bed looks fantastic! But how does the weight compare with the original? If it's much higher in weight the print results will get worse printing at higher speeds. The cooling ribs are smart!

[killejano]

Very nice indeed!

I have the same problems with my heated bed and I'm working on replacing it with a new one with 9 mounting points so I can bend it straight. Allso it will have a 50mm bigger y build area.

My thougts about the hot end have been about the same as your. I want to make one with a top like yours and with aluminium hot end with exhangable brass nozles. Looking forward to see what kinds of results I can get with a 0.5mm or 0.2mm nozle

[Kjetilei]

Nice upgrades!

I noticed from one of your earlier posts that there was something unusual with your hotbed but completely forgot to ask then what it was. Now I know the answer

[Makron]

Thx.

The weight of the bed is not that much more then the original , the chambers make it 2mm thick the ribs are 4mm thick and the plate is 10mm thick

[superhornet59]

I use a 3mm glass plate clipped at 4 corners to really flatten the bed out.. the prints stick really well too. The weight isn't excessive, but I can see how it would be lighter if I just stuck the heat pad (I've go a 2.0) directly onto the glass and dremeled in the 3 holes. but I'm worried about fracture upon expansion (because of the 3 bolts) so maybe I'll hold off on that, then make a version with some bushings... I'm not in a rush though.

[Makron]

A little sneek preview of my next upgrade..

[satoer]

Nice... If I had a cnc-mill I probably machined the extruder carriage, Z-arm and motor / bearing holders first and make a heated enclosure. To print ABS without shrinkage when printing. (and keep the fumes locked in.

[Makron]

Whohoo update to 2.0 and my extruder is done. now for some testing.