Shortening the second hot-end for printing difficult large objects ?

Moderator: speedake95

Post Reply
danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
Contact:

Shortening the second hot-end for printing difficult large objects ?

Post by danielkschneider »

Hi,

I had difficulties printing large terrain models since the second (cold) hot-end can get stuck and rip away the model.

A solution I have in mind is to remove the nozzle (tip) from the second hot end. However, I do not like to do that very much since I broke the hotend last time I tried (well it was a stupid manoeuvre but I did it anyhow).

Any other solution ? I also have this broken hot-end without heater that I could stick into the printer, but of course the firmware will not like it. Using anti-oozing strategies do help a little. But too much retraction and too cold temperatures can cause the plastic flow to stop after a few hours of printing. Adding some tower next to the model is not an option if I want to use up all the space and it's not sure that this will prevent creation of little bumps.

- greetings ! Daniel

PS: for those interesting in printing terrains I wrote down what I learned last spring.
https://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/3D_prin ... ion_models

User avatar
gfeliksdal
Site Admin
Posts: 405
Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:40 pm
Location: Netherlands
Contact:

Post by gfeliksdal »

Hi Daniel,

By moving up the 2nd hot-end 0.5mm, you would most likely be on the safe side. Just loosen the right bolt in front of the extruder and push the hot-end upwards, then fix the bolt again, to secure the hot-end in its new position.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
Contact:

Post by danielkschneider »

thanx, sorry, didn't see your answer earlier , forgot to subscribe to my post =

But I forgot to tell that I have a Felix Pro 1. It's architecture does not seem to allow this (i.e. I cannot find a screw to manipulate height).

- Daniel

User avatar
gfeliksdal
Site Admin
Posts: 405
Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:40 pm
Location: Netherlands
Contact:

Post by gfeliksdal »

Normally when the 2nd hot-end is rotated back, that should give enough clearance. If it is not, you have very large overhangs which curl up significantly. But I guess best would be to remove the nozzle, but be sure to do it when the heater body is warm/hot.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
Contact:

Post by danielkschneider »

Ok, thanx :) That is what I thought.

But indeed I did not think doing it with the heater warmed

I also suspect that slicers produce faulty gcode for large objects and I will try to optimize the STL, e.g. with meshmixer, and play with various slicers

- greetings ! Daniel

Post Reply