Sagging printhead assembly

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satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Re: Sagging printhead assembly

Post by satoer »

I've finally printed ABS successfully! No more warping. I use a plain glass plate covert with Pritt power glue stick (not the regular Pritt, that does not work). I print the Abs on 270 degrees (using a e3d hot end) and the heat bed on 75 degrees. Slice objects with 8mm raft/brim. While printing I also adjust the Z through the steps to really smudge the Abs into the heat bed.

I've already broke one glass trying to get the part off. Now I use a thin knife to pry things of. Works great.
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Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

Cool. So what sort of glue is Pritt? I doubt I'd get the exact same brand in Australia (but I will look). Thanks.
Ben
..
Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
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Post by seaton »

Capella_Ben wrote:so what are you printing the ABS on? Every attempt on every setting I have tried, leads to warping. The best I got was 110 degree bed (on kapton).
I've had good success using a gluestik (from local stationary store) on a glass sheet and heated bed at 100Deg. I started out initially with a sheet of paper glued using a gluestik onto the glass sheet and then the gluestick on top of the paper as someone suggested in the forum, but I've since removed the paper from the equation and just using the gluestik on the glass directly. Sticks so good that I've broken the glass once removing my print (I think thats why the paper was in the equation easy removal without breakages). I've even resorted to using the gluestik on some PLA prints that were playing hard ball on the initial layer.

I'm not printing parts that completely fill my print area so I can't comment on the large prints not warping, but the parts I've printed all come out fine.

I do recommend that some form of insulation be put under the build plate as I'm sure the radiated heat at these temperatures will effect the Y-Axis for sure. I used a sheet of card and this is more than up to the job, I think I cut it from a box of an appliance I bought for the kitchen. The Y-Axis is nice and cool during prints http://www.felixprinters.com/forum/view ... ?f=9&t=584

Stephen...
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Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

Ahh, so a normal glue stick for paper, got it. I went and bought a couple of other types of glues, tarzan grip (mega bond) and Weldbond to also try. I also now have 4 more sheets of glass to experiment with.

I am currently printing a small extruder part in Taulman 618 on blue painters tape, on a cold bed with a raft. Seems to be working great so far. Print quality is OK (might need a bit more retraction though).

thanks for your help.
Ben
..
Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

I changed out the print head as the sag was getting too bad.

Image

There is a fair bit of movement on the green one. I can't wait until they release an injection moulded ABS print head.

I did manage to print some ABS finally.

Image

Left is 618, then ABS then PLA.

Anyway, printing out new parts now.....

Ben
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Ben
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Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Capella_Ben wrote:Cool. So what sort of glue is Pritt? I doubt I'd get the exact same brand in Australia (but I will look). Thanks.
This one:
Image

And clean's easy with water.

Do not buy this one:
Image
This one isn't strong enough.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

So, after one FAILED attempt to print ABS and the print head has sagged again. This time it has sagged at a different angle and the air duct is now too low.

I have re-wired the top fan to 12V. Seems that just makes it melt somewhere else. [sigh].

I guess it's PLA only for me until the new injection moulded parts are available. :(
Ben
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Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

3dprinter-au
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 3:58 pm

Post by 3dprinter-au »

gfeliksdal wrote: On the electronics board there is a soldering jumper.
2013-06-03_182437.png
When you remove that the voltage to the main fan will be 12V. Now with the jumper on it is approx 5V.
The quoted image file isn't displaying correctly. Any chance it could be fixed, or could someone upload a better shot of where the 12V/5V jumper is located? I have the V2.1 electronics board.

Thanks.

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

I don't have a photo handy, but it is just next to where the fan plugs into the main board. I think that there is even a note printed on the board about it. It's a little bit tight in there, be careful.
Ben
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Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

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