Smoothing PLA with TETRAHYDROFURAN or Dichloromethane

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Hugues
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Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2013 5:36 pm

Smoothing PLA with TETRAHYDROFURAN or Dichloromethane

Post by Hugues »

Bumped into this article today:

http://www.protoparadigm.com/blog/2013/ ... furan-thf/

Seems we can use this solvent to smooth PLA , it does the same trick as acetone does to ABS.

That would be really cool, as i've been battling with warping ABS parts for the past 2 weeks,

Anyone gave it a try ?

found some in EU on ebay
http://www.ebay.ch/itm/Tetrahydrofuran- ... HOP:CH:101

some discussions here, might not work as nicely as acetone on ABS it seems:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,193644,193662

..and reading further it seems Dichloromethane works better than tetrahydrofuran, but it's a little nastier chemical:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,193 ... msg-198196
Hugues
Regards from Switzerland

Mayhem
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Location: Finland

Post by Mayhem »

Bad news for dmc

The dangerous chemical compound Dichloromethane (DCM) in paint-strippers will soon be banned for consumers and many professionals, after the adoption of a legislative report by the European Parliament. Thanks to MEPs, a derogation for licensed professionals will be limited and the protection of workers during the industrial use of paint-strippers containing the chemical will be strengthened. The resolution was adopted with 674 votes in favour, 17 against and 8 abstentions.

It has been banned 01.06.2012 i think so can we get it somewhere?
Felix 2.0----> 3.0
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satoer
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Post by satoer »

My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Mayhem
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Post by Mayhem »

Ill order some, thanks for the link.
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Hugues
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Post by Hugues »

Please let us know how it goes because I will probably try it too, I'm running out of ideas for my ABS warping problem

Thanks
Hugues
Regards from Switzerland

superhornet59
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Post by superhornet59 »

I feel like careful flash heating might have the same effect.
If you heat it for too long at a moderate temperature, the part will melt as the heat transfers deeper inside the part. Same happens if you leave ABS in the acetone vapors too long.
Flash heating the part in a very hot oven for 10-15 seconds, however, could be enough to melt the surface before the part turns gooey. Haven't seen any 'results' threads anywhere about such a method, might be worth a shot though. I'm pretty sure people have tried this with lighters/torches, but that's an uneven heat source.

Mayhem
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Post by Mayhem »

my hot end is busted because i cant the dirt out there, end of the month ill order new hot end and then ill return experimenting. ive had the printer like 3 weeks and it is alredy busted, i didnt expect it will break so soon :cry: filament goes upwards after getting out of the nozzle and of course it wont stick to the bed and strings all over the printed part.
Felix 2.0----> 3.0
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superhornet59
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Post by superhornet59 »

My filament goes upward too sometimes... don't know what that's about, but it still prints good. Just make sure you bed is calibrated correctly, and that the nozzle is very close to the bed when you home it. You should barely be able to slide a sheet of thin paper between the nozzle and bed (make sure there is no 'glob' of cooled filament on the tip or it'll be incorrectly set). Then, in the slicer you use, make sure to set a nice fat 0.25mm layer. When the print starts, look at the height of the nozzle about the bed, and how the filament comes out. If it has any chance to go down before touching the bed, you're too high up. That first layer should basically be 'smushed' onto the bed. Also, what bed substrate are you using? I have absolutely excellent results with blue painters tape, it sticks very very well.

As for cleaning the nozzle, yup, mine seems to get clogged more often then I like too.. maybe it's a sign I need to dust my room lol! Stop by a music shop and get a guitar string, you can get them in 0.35 mm (I use a 0.34 because it's all they had, and it goes in easy). Heat up the nozzle, retract out all of the filament, and insert the guitar string into the tip. Gently feed it up through the hot end until it sticks out the extruder. Then just pull it through. Should take some bad stuff out with it (why do you think dentists recommend it haha!) Repeat that a couple of times and it should take care of that problem. Not the gingivitis one of course :P

Mayhem
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Post by Mayhem »

ill contie in the extruder jamming all the time topic :D
Felix 2.0----> 3.0
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Hugues
Posts: 270
Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2013 5:36 pm

Post by Hugues »

i tried using the heat gun on an arnitel part and PLA,
not great results, surface becomes shiny but to really get rid of the layers you have to heat to the point of actually melting the shape,
Arnitel seems to be a bit more tolerant than PLA, but it's nowhere near what you can get with ABS and acetone.
No go.
Hugues
Regards from Switzerland

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