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[stew]

Wobble of the x-axis motor? Or the x-axis belt mount. I'm not sure what you mean. Can't seem to have noticed that significant wobble in x-axis on any of my printers. Maybe the x-axis motor bracket might be improved by making it a bit stronger.

Double beam on the other side would be overkill I think, but might look nice and extra robust.

Hi there.

It's not to do with the x-axis system as such. If you can imagine the corner of the frame (where the x-axis belt is joined to the frame) moving back and forth along the y-axis.
The top beam wobbles/vibrates in the Y-plane with the pivot point being the double beam.
Especially when printing infill as you have a back and forth motion.

The wobble has an amplitude of about 0.5mm which might be causing a y-axis quality reduction.
Stiffening the frame should reduce this significantly.

Just thought I'd point it out as it may be something to think about as an upgrade.

Cheers,
Stew

[satoer]

I think a more reliable hot-end thermistor is a must in a next Felix update. The current thermistor seems to be very unreliable, counting the post on this forum with problems.

[Aztek1701]

I'd like to see a multi plug for the hot end which would allow it to be pulled easily if it needs to be changed. Also a bigger, lower profile electronics box along the lines of one I saw in somebody's photo on here in the gallery.

[tero_kapanen]

All printed parts could have their part number (or the file name) embossed on them. This would make easier to reference to these parts in the user guide.

[dognotdog]

I think a lot of thermistor troubles would be saved with a cable guide to make sure that the wiring doesn't move where it enters the hot-end, it seems very frail, even with the silicone glue. I think i'm gonna try some heat-shrink tubing for stress relief when I replace my currently broken thermistor in extruder #2, as well es try to print a new X axis carriage with some sort of cable guide.

[satoer]

I think heat shrink will make the problems worse. With heat shrink there always be a gap between the hot-end and the heatshrink tube. (the heat shrink cannot touch the 200+ degrees hotend) This will result in much more stress on the wire's at the gap between the heat shrink and the hot end. Also, heat shrink will add extra weight to the cable and probably results in more swaying of the cable.

I haven't checked my broken thermistor, but is a cable breakage the main reason of all the broken thermistors?

[hvdd]

by me, all the wires are heat shrinked and i have also problems with the temp sensors.
for me - it is not the wiring, it is the element itself.
if you look at the datasheet ... how it can work above 240° ? the diagram shows reverse resistance values above 240°
breakdown point is 250° C .....?
it would be better to chose a thermistor with range above 300°.
i had all kind of failures... short circuit of the thermistor 0 ohm. , internal broken open wire and reading values at real 21°C for 2°C and
another one 120°.
temp sensor is overstressed for the extruder not for the heating bed.

[satoer]

I've seen different temperature range's for the same component. Here they say its operating temperature is -55 to +300:
http://uk.farnell.com/epcos/b57560g104f ... 57560G104F

[Lioric]

The thermistors supplied with the printer are good for up to 300 degrees (I have tested and the celling was 350 degrees at which point the thermistor melted internally stuck at that resistance)

[hvdd]

i had another reference , this one should be ok.
sorry.