Disappointment in 3D technology

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And326
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Re: Disappointment in 3D technology

Post by And326 »

tomorrow then I'll try to print an update for my extruder

FUCK FUCK FUCK million times FUCK

advised to print off all the update to the extruder. WHAT?????
If the printer can not print it if it is underachieving fuse wire for normal printing.

he starts typing so fast that the thread underachieving lie evenly, and adjust speed and feed does not helps.

Here's how it prints.
P6280431.JPG
P6280432.JPG
P6280433.JPG
P6280434.JPG
P6280435.JPG
can someone printer prints well, I will make this update. for a nominal fee.

satoer
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Post by satoer »

Even with the old extruder design, it should print perfectly fine.
- Check if the nozzle is clean, or clean it with a piece of guitar string. you should get a steady approx.. 0,35mm thick stream molten fillament if you press the fillament trough the extruder firmly by hand.
- Check if the tension of the bearing is enough / not enough.
- Check if the extruder stepper motor does not skip steps. (apply more power to the extruder motor pot)
- Check if the extruder motor stepper driver does not overheat. (the motor will stop completely sometimes) If so, apply less power to the extruder motor pot.
- Use between 200 and 210 degrees temperature.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

And326
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Post by And326 »

I have tried all the options. nothing works.
- when the material is fed by hand, it is perfectly melted and the thread it is 100%. that is, the nozzle is clean.
- How to check the tension?
When the swirl side adjustment screw tension. motor starts to slip. So it turns out to naprizheniem and feed all right.
- already tried to cast more power and nothing helps. all the same thread does not melt.

seaton
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Post by seaton »

I suggest you try calibrating your machine and when you can print out a calibration piece that is the correct dimensions then you will be able to print the extruder correctly. My print quality was all over the place and not sticking to the bed as well, so I've eliminated a thing at a time since receiving my printer about two weeks ago and now is printing very accurately and good quality.

1) Calibrate the bed by first levelling, then making sure that the head is only 1 piece of paper from the Bed
2) using acetone clean, clean clean and just to make sure clean the bed again with acetone until its squeaking.
3) check and calibrate all x, y and z steps per mm (calibration procedures are out on the net for reprap etc)
4) check and calibrate Extruder steps per mm
5) find optimal temperature for your filament by printing some of these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35088
6) perform thin wall calibration test.

I found that once I did all of these I'm now getting good quality prints. I found that the settings that come with the printer in the firmware are not optimal and a calibration is definitely required.

Other things to try:
Don't play with the flow multiplier, leave it at 100%
Do initial prints at a slower speed to be consistent, then once you are getting decent prints then try increasing your speed.
Try a different slicer, I'm now using kisslicer for all my slicing.
Get the latest firmware
Last edited by seaton on Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

superhornet59
Posts: 60
Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:58 am

Post by superhornet59 »

Hey don't get me wrong, I was barely able to do it too so I know the feeling. There's no obvious way of measuring the tension, but if the bolt is already very tight and the filament still isn't feeding right, it's because the tensioner has no more room to travel further (that's where the update saved my bacon). I know how frustrating it is to hear someone say 'print this' when you can't print, but I also spent over 4 weeks desperately trying any setting, and nothing worked consistently. I actually had to sit there and help feed the filament by hand in order to get it out. Seaton's advice might work for you seeing as you already tried adjusting the 'usual' settings. Definitely keep things slow. Oddly enough I was able to print thin walls fine. Notice the perimeters of your prints came out fine, but not the infill? Had the same issue. Figured it had to do with my retraction settings. In Cura there was a setting to 'prime' the nozzle by extruding a little bit extra after a retraction, which made some difference.

I've also heard that heat creeping up the hot end can soften the filament making it difficult for the extruder to feed it in. After I switched the fan voltage from 5v to 12v, I noticed an improvement. Adjusting those settings helped just barely enough for me to print out the update, but it's been smooth sailing since.

Good luck.
Last edited by superhornet59 on Fri Jun 28, 2013 3:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.

And326
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Post by And326 »

the very first layer is printed on the printer fine, but the following are printed poorly, as they appear in the pictures.
  I have written to either refund the money or change to a working version of the printer. tired of dancing with tambourines.

superhornet59
Posts: 60
Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:58 am

Post by superhornet59 »

Well, good news is Guillaume is very prompt about this kind of thing.. he sent me replacement parts quickly and without any problems when I had my problems. Let us know how this works out for you.. it can be a difficult path but once everything is set up right I have to say it's very rewarding, the print quality that can be achieved is outstanding. All the best!

seaton
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Post by seaton »

this looks like a flow or temperature problem. Check that on the electronics you have the adjustment for the extruder correctly, it may be stalling because it's not adjusted enough.

Also make sure the filament adjustment is not causing the filament to slip.

with the head heated and raised try extruding a large amount of filament, is it flowing freely? if you hold the filament while it's extruding is it slipping or stalling the motor?

Stephen
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

And326
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:06 pm
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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Post by And326 »

I checked the temperature is all right. because when hand delivers material to the extruder, the thread is good at 100%.

here the problem is that when printing material underachieving fed to the extruder for the movement of the carriage. really need to print the upgrade to 2.0. ay me, it does not work. a vicious circle

Guillaume wrote to me that he would send me the update. I'll wait and hope for a miracle that after assembly it will work

Lioric
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:13 am

Post by Lioric »

Dude, change your filament. This is the kind of printing issues that is observed when the filament has bad tolerances. Even on the same spool (specially when you are in the last %10 of the filament) it can start jamming the extruder as the filament creates a lot of friction inside the extruder (some parts of the filament diameter are out of spec) and the results are exactly* as your pictures.

I would recommend to test the filament from Felix printers, it is really a very high quality and the tolerances are within spec.

*The perimeters are printed correctly as the flow is reduced (because of feed rate is lower to improve quality), but the inside of the object is not, because flow rate is faster, and if the filament creates more friction (because of bad tolerances) you will get that kind of printing.

Remember this is not a closed loop system, so it works if everything does what it is "supposed" to do. The machine is not really aware if something is not performing as it should (as in the flow rate of the extruded filament expected is not equal to what is actually extruded)

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