The ultimate anti curling fix so far

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Elmwolf
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 1:36 pm

The ultimate anti curling fix so far

Post by Elmwolf »

not sure if any of you all have tried this yet but if your having problems with your larger prints lifting off the platform (I was possibly due to humidity and air flow issues) try spraying aquanet hair spray in a decent coat over your kapton tape. Let it dry as the platform heats up. (i usually lower the platform by 100 or so before spraying. in any case it will help with the adhesion greatly. it also extends the life of the kapton tape. :c)

Enjoy

Ed McQueen

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei »

Hi Elmwolf,

Thanks for the tips!

It is nice to know that this trick helps with our setup.

I believe I have read a similar tips before but have never gotten around to see if Aquanet hair spray (or whatever hair spray it mentioned) is available locally or if another brand can be used instead.

Lioric
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:13 am

Post by Lioric »

PLA or ABS?

Elmwolf
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 1:36 pm

Post by Elmwolf »

i am running pla so far. i have actually tested something new. i taped a letter sized sheet of transparency plastic down and sprayed the aquanet on it. now i am printing nearly perfect every time :D

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei »

Photos please :)

packman
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:02 am
Location: Cedar Grove, New Jersey, USA
Contact:

Post by packman »

Just tried the AquaNet (#3 extra super hold) on a glass bed. Works like a charm. Previously I had huge problems with curling edges and parts popping off the bed during printing. No problems with the spray. The spray behaves like a water soluble adhesive. Cleans up easily with water. Not all hair sprays work. Tried the brand my wife uses, it did not work. AquaNet is and old brand from a time when women cemented their hair styles in place.

josa
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:00 pm

Post by josa »

I also had huge isseus with curling and adhesion to the printer bed.

Tried several solutions:
  • Spirit on kapton tape: (alcohol with a pigment). The pigment seemed to build up over time and after a while curling and adhesion got worse
  • Hair spray on kapton tape: (couldn't find Aquanet in the Netherlands) all types made things worse. Probably due to perfume or other aditives
  • IPA on kapton tape: similar to spirit on kapton tape results, maybe slightly better and there was no build up of pigment
  • Spirit on glass plate: similar to spirit on kapton
  • IPA on glassplate: similar to IPA on kapton.
With all solutions the bed temperature was between 60 and 65[oC].

The final solution for me, wich gives great results and is very robust!:
  • A solution of 1 part PVA (houtlijm, for dutch) and 20 parts water. Apply the solution to the glass bed with a paper cloth in several layers, while the bed is heated. The PVA dries up as a really thin and smooth surface after applying several layers. PLA sticks really well to this surface and after cooling down the bed the printed part pops right off. Finally the cooled bed can easily be cleaned with a wet and dry cloth.
This is were i got the idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuQ2EabKBDo

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Thanks for the tip! I've had a lot of warping problems. And I can't discover why. Sometimes it works great and sometimes the first lines are already curling up while printing the first layer. I've had such mixed results and I can't figure out why it sometimes works, and other times not. My best results was with a wet sanded glass plate. It was almost impossible to pull the object off while heated, but when the bed cooled down, it pops off automatically... But all of the sudden it stopped working. Tried different calibrated Z heights, different temperatures... no luck. Probably some grease from the pla filled the sanding scratches. Went back to the Kapton solution, and this worked for a while, but now the warping issues reappear. New Kapton, Different starting temperatures (tried 200 - 230 degrees). Heated bed always 65 degrees. And always cleaning with acetone before each print. But again no luck.

Yesterday I discovered they sell special PLA stickers at Reprapworld:
http://reprapworld.com/?products_detail ... _1619_1642
Very good adhesion with PLA, reduce warping dramatically!

Stick this stuff to your glass or PCB heated bed. Very smooth surface for your prints. We have tested printing at 35 degrees bed temperature giving the best results, without sticking to much.

This is a set of 5 pieces printing sticker.
So I've ordered some of them. I will post the results :-) and otherwise I will try your woodglue solution!
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

JTa
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Finland

Post by JTa »

Hi, as a complete newbie on 3d printing I still have managed to build the Felix 1.5 kit and got it working with first try. :o

I'm using glass bed (bought cheap photo frame with thin glass as was suggested elsewhere on this forum) and I did not bother sanding or anything. I first tried some sprayable glue, which worked fine but only for one run per place.

Now I've found the ultimate solution: Sugar + water. I mixed hot water with enough sugar to make it somewhat sticky and then I covered the glass with it. I let it dry for a while, then I wiped it with sponge to make the coating more even all around the glass and then I put it on the heated bed to dry more..more sponge, until it got really sticky. Then I took a scraper and scraped the surface to be as flat as possible.

Results: Pretty good. I've now printed about a dozen times on the same spot. Only problem (?) is that the damn prints don't come off easily until the bed is cold enough. And no curling at all. I haven't had to redo the sugar treatment yet. I have even used a razor blade to scrape the prints of the bed and cleaned it and some fine sugar dust gets of then but no problems. The black filament printed parts get almost a mirror finish on the bottom..

Bed temperature: 55 - 65
Hot end: 195 - 200.

I'm getting some ABS filament soon, gotta try and see how that works on this or if I need another glass and that ABS juice..

daveinhull
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:31 am

Post by daveinhull »

Hi,

I'm using Scotch blue painters tape which with a bed temperatue of 70 does appear to work on parts as large as 180 x 60mm. I do have a couple of questions:
1. With the tape approach do you need to do any degreasing and if so how?
2. Do you put the tap eon cold or hot, becuase I put it on cold and now there are 1/2 mm gapes between each pieve of tape.

I really lile the idea of a "mirrow finish" so might give the glass + sugar + water ago.

Thanks
Dave

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