Printer Freezes, Software Keeps Running

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Foxi-5
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Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:53 am

Printer Freezes, Software Keeps Running

Post by Foxi-5 »

Hi all, I hope someone can shed some light on this problem?

The machine has been printing somewhat ok, a few clogs that are easily fixed, no other dramas. However, a creeping problem is occurring sooner and sooner after commencing a print.

The printer will run as per normal, then it will for some inexplicable reason, suddenly halt all motion and switches off the fan and extruder, but the software is oblivious to it and is running away about 10 times faster than normal. You can watch the virtual filament being laid down at rocket speed.

This error took about 4 hours to appear once, then say about 2 hours, 1 hour, 40 mins, now it's down to about 20 minutes after starting a job. While I'm sitting here watching it and surfing the web. So certainly not the PC's sleep mode(which is off).

The extruder isn't clogged, and will happily extrude very well if I start it up again.

The odd thing is that it's occurring sooner and sooner. I have no idea why?
I've re-installed latest versions of Repiteir, Marlin, Arduino, printer driver and all patches for Windows 7 Ultimate are up to date. No other software has been installed either. Plus heaps of room on a SSD >470gig free, 16 gig ram. Also tried the 'Ping Pong Communication' tick box, restarted and it didn't effect the time out issue.

No errors are reported from the software side, so I'm totally confused as to why the printer just says to itself, 'Stop!'. Anyone have any ideas?

satoer
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Post by satoer »

Is it possible that something is touching the reset button on the board?
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Foxi-5
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Post by Foxi-5 »

Hi Satoer, checked the blue box, but nothing has altered. No loose wires. I think I know what the cause might be after all. Dying thermistor. I've been printing in Nylon 245-250 degrees, and it appears the thermistors might not be made for this duty. I'm not even a 10th of the way through the roll of nylon yet... I've put the replacement thermistor in and so far it hasn't stalled. *Fingers crossed* that it finally makes it through this print happening as I type... Ordered a batch of them just in case. Seems to me, if it is the thermistor, 10 thermistors for 1 roll of nylon... :(

Bachgassenbande
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Post by Bachgassenbande »

Hi Foxi-5
as you print Nylon, can you post your experience with the material. I have also planned to build some parts in Nylon (also replacement parts)
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Foxi-5
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Post by Foxi-5 »

Hi Bachgassenbande,

Yep, Nylon is pretty good stuff for mechanically jointed parts, really good, but, it’s extremely hard to successfully print. Also, orientation of the part is important as it will still rip layers apart when in use if not properly printed. I’ve found pushing the temp up helps a lot, but that’ll most likely burn out your thermistor.. The only thing I could recommend being such as a noob as I am is, 30-40% speed for extruder fill and perimeters/loops. Too quick makes a stringy mess. However fast and light deposit for support material (and the absolute bare minimum of it), at max speed too. The really big problem is the clogging, and this is by far the one thing that lets down the printer. However, nylon seems to be very forgiving to heat up and manually push through (retract a little then extrude and push, never fails).

The ultimate advice I can give, also goes for PLA, make sure there are the absolute minimum up/down/pulse/retract motions during any layer. What I mean by that is, when the extruder has to stop/start/stop/start/stop/start a lot when printing on a layer, this causes inconsistent flow and nylon tends to stop flowing resulting in a clog. Never use the complex pattern shapes for infill, always use ‘lines’. Long runs of deposition come out very nicely. Also, when the printer first begins, I always manually push the nylon through while it’s circling on the platform and for a little ways into the base layer. Nylon doesn’t want to flow easily to begin. Lowering the extruder manually at the very start helps it grip the bed too. I always have the fan on full too.

Also, another trick of mine, I don’t use the heated bed anymore for either PLA or nylon. I use this every day, Base plate, Kapton tape, glue stick, A4 paper, glue stick. (Gluestick is the cheapy paper one). .. Also I only put in the tiniest amount of raft and support material and the thing sticks brilliantly to the glue on the paper. Never had any lifting since. I use 3 base layers and 3 of the other layer type(whatever it’s called-(interface?))… Also, once the paper is too messy to be used, I rip off what I am able and check for smoothness by hand, and then glue and lay another paper sheet over the top. Paper is slightly spongy meaning smooth enough is good enough and it’s very forgiving for a ‘low’ extruder head. Saves me a lot of trouble and the prints are always great.

So, I’ve now ordered a new batch of the newer thermistors from Mouser Electronics, so hopefully I‘ll be able to run at 270 which is by far the best temp on a Felix 2.0 machine.

Other than that, I’ve got a ratio of 30 fails to 1 successful print on Nylon. It’s waaay harder to print than PLA. Also, have back up thermistors if you intend to print Nylon.


Also, the print from the new thermistor failed (what's new there), but the machine stayed running. So more clogs but at least the problem was the thermistor....

seaton
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Post by seaton »

@Foxi-5
I just tried the gluestick and paper trick on both PLA and ABS works a treat on both although haven't done big prints yes only test pieces. PLA the hot bed was set at 0 and all printed while with ABS I set the hotbed to 65 and it printed perfectly
Stephen...

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Mayhem
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Post by Mayhem »

But glue to the plate then a4 paper and glue on the paper? This works on abs too?
Ai was thinking about ordering cubex glue to print abs but id like to test this paper method.
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seaton
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Post by seaton »

Mayhem wrote:But glue to the plate then a4 paper and glue on the paper? This works on abs too?
Ai was thinking about ordering cubex glue to print abs but id like to test this paper method.
It has for me, although the paper sticks like crazy to the bottom of the print and have to scrape it off after(I wasn't using a raft, might try that next) Last print I did was just with the glue on the glass plate and that also worked for me, hotplate was at 70Degc, was a real bugger to get off the glass, I thought I was going to break the glass but ended up getting a spatula under a corner and pried it off.
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

Foxi-5
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Post by Foxi-5 »

Yep, it's why I use the Kapton tape down first then paper. That way, if something sticks hard, the tape insulates the metal surface or glass from damage somewhat. Yep, I always use a raft and interface layers, that way you've always got a flat surface and ability to get something under the surface of the object to lift it up later. I usually pry around the edges of the raft and then the object usually pops off very easily.

Good that it worked for you Seaton.

Actually, the bigger the raft, the easier it is to remove as well as maintaining a level print (no curling).

seaton
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Post by seaton »

I'll give the raft a go next but am using Kisslicer so will see how that works as I haven't used it before
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

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