Mods, increasing accuracy and business ventures!

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killejano
Posts: 92
Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:23 pm

Re: Mods, increasing accuracy and business ventures!

Post by killejano »

I have the original 1.5 setup, a wobling spidle but no z-woble. How?

Well fist I trimmed the slide with kapton tape to have no play and the I chose a nut that had its threads straight.

Most of any visible lines come from a wobly nut. The movement is not what it's supposed to be but smaller or larger with every rotation of the spindle.

twicx
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:26 pm

Post by twicx »

my z wobble was being caused by an oscillating z motor bracket. Unfortunately, there's no stl to print a replacement one. I managed to reduce the z wobble a lot by removing the bearing at the top of the z spindle, and tightening the z motor by putting a piece of thick card between the back of the bracket and the steel frame, then holding it in place with a clamp.

twicx
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:26 pm

Post by twicx »

So, in the last few days, I've done a few upgrades. The above mod to help reduce Z-wobble is very effective, but it's definitely only a temporary solution till I upgrade to 2.0. I've also gone for the glass print surface, which i'm very impressed with so far. Granted, it takes a bit longer to heat up and I'd wonder if switching to different resistors would make a difference. I can't remember what their values are, but if they're 4.7R, maybe go to 3.6 or 2.7R. In anycase, it coincidentally seems to heat up to 60 degrees in the exact time it takes me to go make a cup of tea.

Right now, I'm printing a Z-Vane mod, but I can't remember who it was on this board who designed it! My own Z-Vane is a little loose in the t-slot nut, so this seems to be an easy replacement.

Also relevant to this topic, what's ABS like when printing onto glass?

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

The new heatbed has a kapton film heater which decreased the heat-up time and has no hot-spots. I've isolated my heatbed with a piece of ironing board-cover foam to get higher temperatures and faster heating.

I use also glass plates... mainly for different kind of adhesion properties. One with a avery sticker for PLA and one with just bare glass smeared with Pritt Power (not the regular pritt!) gluestick for use with ABS (heated at 75 degrees).
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

twicx
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:26 pm

Post by twicx »

So far, I'm using bare glass (2mm) with PLA @65 degrees and it's sticking really well during print, but once it cools it comes away easily. I'm very pleased with it so far!

The question now is which upgrade to do first, go to 2.0, or go buy the e3d hot end? I have your carriage all printed and assembled now :P Only thing is, I've had very bad luck printing with thinner layer heights, but i think it's just that I have the wrong settings. Still, that's for another days discussion.

As another cheap upgrade, I was looking at a few alternative cooling fans. The ones with LEDs could look cool, and provide good cooling, but they're mostly 3 or 4 pins, so I'm assuming the other pins are for the LEDs. Alternatively, there's some good 2 pin ones that provide better cooling and are a bit quieter. Not a critical print, and I doubt will improve print quality, but an upgrade's an upgrade, right?

Makron
Posts: 110
Joined: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:29 pm

Post by Makron »

I would upgrade to the 2.0 the new board ,hiwin and spindel are a real upgrade !

twicx
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:26 pm

Post by twicx »

what's the benefit of the new board Makron? is it just incase I decide to go for dual extruders or the display?

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

I've had that same experience with (sanded) glass... and suddenly it stopped working. Every-item peeled off. Cleaned really good, no luck.

Go for the hiwin and spindel upgrade. Skip the new board, this doesn't improve quality and you can also install a SD reader / display for the ramps. (and save's you a lot of time re-routing all the cables).
The heatbed kapton heater is also a nice upgrade.

Buy the e3d hot end if you're getting troubles with the felix version. Jamming etc.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

twicx
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:26 pm

Post by twicx »

its not that the felix one jams, it's just that when I go to print, for example, on high quality where the layer height is smaller and finer, it'll print a few layers than stop feeding. I think it's to do with the retraction, but i usually print on production quality, or use Slic3r, so I don't really need to fix it just yet.

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