ABS printing and non-stick to heat bed. Optos

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rmerrick
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:07 am

ABS printing and non-stick to heat bed. Optos

Post by rmerrick »

I built the machine this weekend. Took me 12 hours.
Problems with the optos. They are wired wrong in the instruction Manual and the 2.1 PCB has VCC connect to 12V through 1K resistors. This doesn't work. Rewire the VCC wires to the 5V from the power supply. The home function didn't work. Needed the "tipex" fix and washers under the sensor boards with longer screws.
The spring washer/ flat washer arrangement for adjusting the table tilt did not have enough range so I replaced the washers with a real spring. 25mm x 10mm compression spring. Much better adjustment now.

Problems with print adhesion to the table.
I have grey ABS filament and I have managed to get the printer working well with nozzle temp either 225 or 245 C BUT i cannot get it to stay stuck to the Kaptron tape bed.
I cant get the heated bed more than 90C and I have read other sites that say i need 110 to 120 for ABS. All suggestions are welcome as to how to get the temperature up. maybe insulating the underside of the plate? or is it software limited?

After about 6 layers the piece starts to curl off the plate.
I have seen suggestions about turning the fan OFF but this caused the layer to lift and wrinkle.
I saw a post about glass so I found a piece then discovered the bed plate is not flat. It droops almost 1mm at the corners.

I am open to all suggestions as to how the moulding to make it stick to the bed.
thanks
Ray

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

If this is your first experience with the printer, then I really suggest to use PLA. If you get more experienced with the technology, then start to widen you're horizon to use other materials.

ABS can be really frustrating. It does shrink a lot while printing. This results in pulling itself from the plate. PLA does not shrink, extrudes at lower temperature and stick way better to the plate.

That being said. I just recently found a good way to print ABS. I use a 75 degrees glass plate on top of the heatbed, smeared in with Pritt power glue stick.
Not the regular Pritt, that doesn't work.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

Hi Satoer,

My Pritt power stick finally arrived in the mail today (had to get it from the UK, they don't sell it in Australia).

I have rubbed it over a clean glass plate and let it dry. It seems to stick to the glass quite well. It doesn't seem to come off too easily if I scratch at it.

I have started yet another print of the extruder base. Will let you know how I go.

Using a 70 degree bed + 230 degree hot end.

Ben
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Ben
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Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

satoer wrote:If this is your first experience with the printer, then I really suggest to use PLA. If you get more experienced with the technology, then start to widen you're horizon to use other materials.

ABS can be really frustrating. It does shrink a lot while printing. This results in pulling itself from the plate. PLA does not shrink, extrudes at lower temperature and stick way better to the plate.

That being said. I just recently found a good way to print ABS. I use a 75 degrees glass plate on top of the heatbed, smeared in with Pritt power glue stick.
Not the regular Pritt, that doesn't work.
OK, so what am I doing wrong?

Image

Image

Ben
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Ben
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Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

I managed to cobble together all the extruder parts in ABS. The base is a bit warped, but with a bit of filing, I was able to put it all together.

I can now print ABS pretty reliably on a 100 degree bed coated with Kapton. The trick is to get the extruder parts printed in ABS first.

Ben
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Ben
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Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

So no more warping? Not sure why the first prints warped. Did you use at least a 75 degrees hot-bed? I'm using a brim of 8mm (a bit larger than you use). While printing the first layer a re-calibrate the Z height on the fly by turning the Z stepper motor through the steps. So the first layer smudges really into the heatbed.

I've even have broken a glassplate by trying to pry of a ABS part. (I'm using a fillet knife)

230 degrees for ABS sounds a bit low. I'm melting ABS on 270 degrees, but I use another hot-end and thermistor, so I don't know if my temperature's are reliable.

If you use a 100 degrees hotbed, I think it would be wise to print the Y/Z carriage also in ABS or isolate the bottom of the hotbed to heat shield it. (and get much faster heat up times)
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben »

I'm finding Kapton at 100 degrees seems to work really well. The Pritt was OK, but I think I would have to re-apply it between each print. I did get an OK print with it, but the second time it didn't stick as well. Kapton is re-usable.

I have insulated the bottom of the heat bed as well as having a few copied of the Y/Z carriage. In fact I have a few copies of all of the spare parts (including a HUGE collection of extruder parts!)

I have moved up to 235 degrees for the hot end, but maybe I need to go a little higher. Your E3D hot end/bowden conversion looks really good. I might do that some day. Maybe I'll wait until you do a kraken conversion. ;)
Ben
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Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

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