Filament jam

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JTa
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Finland

Re: Filament jam

Post by JTa »

instasquid wrote:JTa: I have an infrared thermometer which says the tip of the hotend is only 95C instead of 195C. So that seems a likely culprit. Thanks!

What do I do to fix the termistor?
Infrared thermometer might not tell the truth entirely. Uninstall the thermistor and if you have a multimeter of some sort, check the resistance of it. It should read something around 100kohm in room temperatures (+20C or so).

There should be replacement thermistor in your Felix kit? I'm actually using the thermistor that came with the E3D hotend. These are glass capsuled and the one I installed has not failed yet, even after doing high temps (+260C and above) for long prints, something the ones that came with Felix could not handle.

This thermistor issue is too common to be coincidence. Hopefully they'll replace the current thermistor model shipped with Felix with something better in future, it sure makes this great printer look bad.

satoer
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Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

When not in use (cooled down), is the hot-end temperature aprox. the same as the heatbed temperature?
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

instasquid
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:56 am

Post by instasquid »

Satoer - No, they're not. Hotend reads 24C on the LCD screen, 29C on the IR thermometer while the Hotbed reads 22C on the LCD and 22.6C on the IR thermometer.

JTa - Having a hard time getting a definite reading from the termistor, but it is not 100k more 133k or 160k. I forgot about the replacement thermistor [or didn't realise what it was at first] - thanks for reminding me! Off to try and change it now. What's the black gooey substance being used to hold it in place?
Last edited by instasquid on Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

t800
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:28 am

Post by t800 »

You might also look up "pla canola oil" on google.
My pla used to jam after a few layers. I measured it with a caliper and its just over 1.75 mm , so i'm suspecting it creates just a little to much friction in the hot end.

Applying a drop of canola oil on the first 30 cm or so of the filament seems to work miracles.
you might need to reapply after a while, But i just printed a 2 hour part without problems.

JTa
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Finland

Post by JTa »

instasquid wrote:JTa - Having a hard time getting a definite reading from the termistor, but it is not 100k more 133k or 160k. I forgot about the replacement thermistor [or didn't realise what it was at first] - thanks for reminding me! Off to try and change it now. What's the black gooye substance being used to hold it in place?
If you get such readings, it's quite likely broken. The reading should be quite consistent provided you do not touch the thermistor and warm it up the same time.

I used kapton-tape to secure the thermistor into the hot end. Much cleaner solution and makes it lot easier to replace the thermistor WHEN it blows again. Thermistor is inherently such part that it will not sustain such temperatures forever.

After replaceing the thermistor, do the "soft" cleaning procedure for the hotend first before trying to extrude anything. ie. you warm the hotend to something around 80-90 C and pull the filament out. Then heat it up to 195C, extrude a little, let it cool again to 80 C and pull the filament out again. All this without the extruder motor of course. There were better instructions on doing this somewhere but I can't find those now..

instasquid
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:56 am

Post by instasquid »

New thermistor is installed, still not getting filament. Got a fine gauge guitar sting that measures .25mm approx, but can seem to clean the nozzle with it from either direction.

Now I am really stumped.
Thermistor: fine.
Filament is still not extruding.

Thoughts?

JTa
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Finland

Post by JTa »

What do the temperature readings now show when both bed and hotend are cold? Try heating the hotend to 230C and try again. Maybe your PLA was ABS.. That you can check easily with acetone. :)

instasquid
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:56 am

Post by instasquid »

It's definitely not ABS. A small sample in acetone wont melt, letting the hotend bathe in it for a while hasn't helped.

The hotbed measures about 23 when cold, the hotend about 26-28.

I've heated up the hot end to 230 and run the filament in and out several times. It melts at the end, but still wont extrude. I've also done the soft cleaning method - no help their either. Can't get the guitar string through the nozzle either - hot or cold. It's totally clogged with something, but no idea what or how to fix it.

instasquid
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:56 am

Post by instasquid »

Just in ase anyone ends up browsing this thread with the same problem: I fixed it by buying the v4 head. Both v3 heads are still jammed and useless, but the v4 is installed and printing just fine.

An expensive and annoying solution, but a solution all the same.

Saamec
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 9:28 am

Post by Saamec »

Well, I did their version of the head. All cause congestion in a thin layer PEEK between aluminium parts. Fluoropolymer Bush agreed to all the problems. More specifically can be found here: http://forum.felixprinters.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=729 If you want you Can do the following. Take fluoroplastic rod, drill the hole 2 mm, and cut into rings 1-2 mm thick. Then drill a PEEK in the partition, in consequence of which PEEK be just a Bush in my version. And ring Teflon will play the role of the partitions needed to prevent heat transfer. Everything is simple, not expensive, and 100% will work. Happy printing)))

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