mounting the display unit

Help eachother out with assembly problems.
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rmerrick
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:07 am

mounting the display unit

Post by rmerrick »

ok, i give up. I cant find anywhere how to mount the ldc display box to the frame? am I missing something.
took 8 weeks to get the display.. guess there were supply back orders..
thanks

hvdweerd
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:48 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by hvdweerd »


rmerrick
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:07 am

Post by rmerrick »

nope. not there. No info on how to attach the display to the rails so it wont just fall off.
the cables are connected on.. but they push the box off the rails.
as i said the only way I can make it stay on is Blu-tac..
why didnt the box come with moulded clips to snap on the rail?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20234.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20235.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20236.jpg

ray

Bachgassenbande
Posts: 132
Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Location: Würzburg

Post by Bachgassenbande »

As I look at your provided pictures;
Request from Felix support a new display cover as yours is not printed complete / correct
Nomally it is not really tight clipped in the ray but placed in the ray.
Felix 2.0
E3D Kraken Hotend
3mm Glas bed
LED light bar upgrade

hvdweerd
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:48 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by hvdweerd »

Now I see, you have printed the newest version (F3.0)

Maybe you can try this?
http://shop.felixprinters.com/downloads ... nit%2Fold/

rmerrick
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:07 am

Post by rmerrick »

it only arrived on monday.. straight from Netherlands. Posted 19 Nov..
i will print one. No problems with that.
But lots of problems with ABS and heat. The bed is heated to 110C and the radiated heat rises and makes the extruder motor so hot after 30 minutes, it burns.. And the heat flows to the knurled wheel and softens the filament and misfeed.. I turned the fan over and removed the duct.. Better now. But I am printing a dual extruder head and bowden feeder. I think its the only way.
I see the specs are 10-30C on the printer. well it has been 38C here, and the ABS i had needed 275 (uncorrected thermister error, actually 245C) to extrude..
and 275 kills the controller. Reboots.
After all the Y-axis parts melted..
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20193.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20195.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20187.jpg
the fix is
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20237.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20238.jpg
and the extruder head softened and bent, jammed the feed bearing against the housing.
I gave up and made a new one with substantially more material around the bearing area
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20240.jpg



Bent platen I cant straighten. Too afraid to force in case i go too far.
and the table droops..
I found I can get the platen level to within 0.1mm by moving the centre bolt about 50mm & NOT putting it through the table.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109 ... %20239.jpg
The table should have 4 supports and 2 bars underneath.

Bachgassenbande
Posts: 132
Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Location: Würzburg

Post by Bachgassenbande »

Do you have the V3 heated bed?
The spring you use to level the bed looks not thrustfull!

The issue is that the parts are printed in PLA and PLA can't withstand temperatures >60°C for long time.

So I haven't printed in ABS right now, but saw that some people hat good results with some kind of stickers and heated bed tempertaures of 70°C (also applied insulation on the heated bed).
Just search the forum.

I'm waiting for the V3 upgrade available and will start then with ABS printing; injection molded parts should be much more temperature resistance as the PLA printed we have right now.
Felix 2.0
E3D Kraken Hotend
3mm Glas bed
LED light bar upgrade

rmerrick
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:07 am

Post by rmerrick »

I only use ABS so i need a bed at 100-110C. I have insulated the underside with 8mm thick double corrugated cardboard. With the original mounting 8mm was all I could fit. Now with the 20mm clearance I could add a layer of 6-8mm ploystyrene (packing). I also add a sheet of cardboard to the top when heating the bed.
I thought with the longer screws i would get the deck wobbling but with the aluminium plates on the ends and a snug fit in the holes I get no wobble at all. Strange that moving the centre support 50mm "north" has fixed the plate twist. I now have a dead level plate. No 1mm droop in one corner.
I have replaced all the PLA parts that get hot with ABS.
In fact I am printing a dual extruder setup now..
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:130730
The existing bearing and knurled wheel dont fit. Have to buy 10mm bearing and gear wheel.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:130740
again it needs modifying. I added screw clamping to the bowden tube because the slip out.

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