Help/Discussion on my Felix2.0 Problems

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Mirran
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:50 pm

Help/Discussion on my Felix2.0 Problems

Post by Mirran »

Hi all!
I’m an owner of a felix 2.0 since this summer. I now had some time to explore and make some changes to my liking. I work in CAD design and I entered on the 3D printer world because I’m always inventing something as a hobby and this is the best way to test all my ideas.
I also own a replicator 1, so I will be making some comparisons and comments.
I’m having some problems/difficulties with my Felix that I couldn’t find a solution yet. So by making this post maybe someone can help me with solutions or at least we can all discuss and come to a solution.


Image



1st Problem – Printing with ABS

First of all I want to know if anyone is able to print with ABS in a Felix printer? I made many attempts but the heated platform doesn’t go higher than 90ºC and the ABS doesn’t stick to the platform. I had a similar problem in my replicator, the platform can heat to 110ºC and the ABS sticks to the platform but with the normal flow of air in the room in some parts (the bigger the worst) the corner would start to bend up and the part eventually got loose. On my replicator I solved my problem by closing the printer. By avoiding air currents and maintaining a reasonably 40 to 55ºC inside the printer I haven’t had a single wrap yet even on big parts. When i print with PLA I only need to remove the side covers to let the air flow.
The Felix has a very open structure and I think that’s the main reason that the heated platform isn’t able to get to the 110ºC required for the ABS to stick. Also maybe the power available to the platform could be a bit higher to compensate the much cooler environment. Personally I don’t think that even cranking up the power to the platform will help much. Even if we can put the platform to the 110º the size of the platform itself would make it dangerous to be near and very power hungry. I wanted to know If anyone was solve this problem and if so, how?

Would a acrylic (to be able to see) enclosure be a good ideia as an add on to the felix to solve this problem?

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2nd Problem –Printing Speed

I was used to the software replicatorg and makerware from the replicator 1, and then I found myself battling with the repetier for the felix with 20X the parameters to tweak and change the printing options. I’m using the Slic3r for generating the gcode to my parts. Couldn’t put the SFACT one to work and to be honest I’m a bit lasy with the software/programming part. :?

First thing I noticed is that there is a huge difference in printing speed between the two printers. Tests were conducted with exactly the same STL¸ both PLA, same Temperatures, same infill % and Layer height. I didn’t change any of the default speed on the parameters of each. The Felix takes almost too 3 times longer to make the same part.

My Parameters usually are:

Image

Image


Which are the parameters that you guys are mostly using and that are working for you?


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3rd Problem - Printing quality

The Felix has a smoother work giving it a best quality than the replicator. The prints on the replicator if we look closely we can notice that the extruder is more wobbly on is trajectory. This makes the parts have a wavier surface than the felix ones. I’m not talking of the vertical layers but the path of each horizontal layer itself. These different are very minute and I can only see examining very closely.
On the next image the left mouse was made on the replicator and right one on the Felix (same building parameters).

Image

I usually have some trouble getting the parts all perfect on the Felix. On the previous image the Felix mouse has some holes in his head and the plastic in the ears curled. What do you guys think the problem in this case was?



I also have some MAJOR problems with what seems to be extruder consistency. In the printing process sometimes there seems that the PLA isn’t being extruded properly and this weakens the part and results in the following cases shown in the pictures…

Image

Image

Its not the filament quality (I use it in other printers without problems), its not the correct feed of the filament roll because the system that I design is very smooth and the roll rotates freely, its not the grip of the extruder stepper (it's tight and the filament is being pulled hard to the extruder). What could be the problem? This seems to happen only on bigger parts. If I make a small size and rounder part it never has any defect in the layers.

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4th Problem – SD Card Standalone print / LCD Control


Can’t seem to be able to make the sd card priting work. I insert the card it appears a message on the LCD saying “card removed” nonetheless the repetier detects the card and I’m able to upload the gcode to the card. I remove the card a message appears “card inserted”. I check the files on the pc and they are there, I insert the card and the printers doesn’t detect nothing. Seems to me that some kind of glitch in the programming. Has anyone been able to print with a sd card?

On another note I think the menu on the LCD control panel of the Felix it’s not user friendly. The options are difficult to navigate.


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Thank you very much in advance for you help and patience. :D

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
Contact:

Post by seaton »

I've successfully printed ABS but not big parts, I did insulate the bottom of the build platform to help, before this I could only get to 80-90Deg.

I've bypassed Slic3r and SFACT altogether and am using the registered version of Kisslicer, much simpler and may help with your quality and speed issues. Try the free version, it pretty well does everything. The only downside it doesn't integrate into repeiter host so you have to slice externally and manually import.

Regarding the SD problem, I had exactly the same problem, how I fixed mine was to invert the card detect in the firmware but you may want to update to the latest firmware first.

Stephen...
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

maoz
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Apr 15, 2013 9:54 am
Location: Saint-Petersburg, Russia

Post by maoz »

Same problem #3 all time. Actually i don't believe to this photos of the perfect octopus and other things. Tried alot settings specially from the other members but unsuccessfully.

Bachgassenbande
Posts: 132
Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Location: Würzburg

Post by Bachgassenbande »

Problem #2 #3
Change the Slicer to KISSlicer and calibrate your Extruder
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to- ... onclusion/

Additional if you do not have done change the heated bed to version 3 and/or apply a glass plate.
Search the forum here.
Felix 2.0
E3D Kraken Hotend
3mm Glas bed
LED light bar upgrade

Mirran
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:50 pm

Post by Mirran »

Thank you for your answers.

Seaton:
How did you insulate your build platform? Do you think that if i enclose the printer would i be able to print ABS correctly?

A bit pricy to go pro on kisslicer. I'm still testing with the free version and so far with 5 different parts I notice that it prints faster but the gaps on the extrusion still remain. Some zones of the part have less or no material at all making holes and turning the part weak.

Very NOOB questions: Where can i check my firmware version? How to update firmware? How to invert the card detect?
I bought my felix a month after the last version of firmware present in the download section of felixprinters.com so i should have the latest... i hope! :D

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Maoz:
I was thinking that i was doing something wrong, but seems that there are others having the same issues. Maybe someone will help us with this problem so we can enjoy our Felix printers the way it is supposed to work.

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Bachgassenbande

I did the calibration from the instructable you gave me 4 times now. and when I check the results with the following parameters:
Speed: 100 mm/min
Extrude: 100 mm
The mark never aligns it gives me all the time a like 4 to 8mm difference. I repeat and it’s the same thing. The extruder stepper is griping the filament. I watched closely and the filament was always being pulled. What could I be doing wrong? Which are you EEPROM settings?

Image

I don't have a v3.0 heated bed. I will try your glass plate upgrade suggestion. Already gave order to cut me a 2to3mm glass plate to try in my Felix2.0 . I will test it out this weekend and let you know.

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
Contact:

Post by seaton »

Mirran wrote:Thank you for your answers.

Seaton:
How did you insulate your build platform? Do you think that if i enclose the printer would i be able to print ABS correctly?
I did is very simply, I used cardboard and Kapton tape and taped it to the bottom of the build platform, definitely made a difference. the cardboard was from a box of a new Kitchen appliance I had just purchased and was perfect size.

I have thought about enclosing the printer myself, but haven't gone down that path, where my printer is setup it pretty cold and breezy in winter and still prints fine, just takes a little longer for the bed to reach temperature.
A bit pricy to go pro on kisslicer. I'm still testing with the free version and so far with 5 different parts I notice that it prints faster but the gaps on the extrusion still remain. Some zones of the part have less or no material at all making holes and turning the part weak.
I did find a problem where I had similar to yours, after investigation I found that it was more along the X Axis rather then Y, and ended up being the hot end having some play in the carriage, how I rectified it was a thin shim of PLA from a failed print in behind the hot end. So I removed hot end put shim in holder, then reinstalled hot end and fan cover tightened as per usual and that was all that was needed to fix my problem, no more play, immediate improvement in prints.
Very NOOB questions: Where can i check my firmware version? How to update firmware? How to invert the card detect?
I bought my felix a month after the last version of firmware present in the download section of felixprinters.com so i should have the latest... i hope! :D
I don't think you can check version per say from anywhere, just download latest from the download area and upload to your board using Arduino tools, very straight forward.

Stephen...
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

Bachgassenbande
Posts: 132
Joined: Sat Jul 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Location: Würzburg

Post by Bachgassenbande »

Mirran wrote:Thank you for your answers.


Bachgassenbande

I did the calibration from the instructable you gave me 4 times now. and when I check the results with the following parameters:
Speed: 100 mm/min
Extrude: 100 mm
The mark never aligns it gives me all the time a like 4 to 8mm difference. I repeat and it’s the same thing. The extruder stepper is griping the filament. I watched closely and the filament was always being pulled. What could I be doing wrong? Which are you EEPROM settings?
See picture of my original values attached.

Changed the Z Value to 162,5 and got a perfect match for me.
The whole proceedure was a litttle bit tricky as reducing the Z value does not follow all time the same scematic. But after 10 times tweaking I got it.
Einstellungen.PNG
Felix 2.0
E3D Kraken Hotend
3mm Glas bed
LED light bar upgrade

Mirran
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:50 pm

Post by Mirran »

Thank you guys for everything! :D

I finally found the right value for my printer 161,8. Really near yours(Bachgassenbande), makes sense since we are using the same printer. This adjustment seems to improved alot my prints, i haven't seen more major gaps in the printing cycle.
I made the same mouse from the first post and we can see a clear improvement. There are still two litle holes in his head (much smaller than before) but this is due to the Slic3r gcode generation. Tried with kissSlicer and it didn't made any holes.

Image


I also tested the new upgrade. The glass platform, works like a charm. I tried 3 big parts and none of them curled or bend!

Image


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Printed an owl that i found on the quality post here in the forum. Here are the pictures:

Image

Image

Image

Not bad at all. Some zones add a bit of curling because there where no supports but the general quality is not that bad. I used the Slic3r to this print and there are two little holes i the top of the head also.

I'm still trying the SFACT and KisSlicer, i haven't much experience yet but this will come with time. They seem to be better for some kind of parts. The KisSlicer seems to have a very neat printing path generation but chosing some parameters are still confusing to me in the program. Also i cant seem to be able to put heat platform to work in the KisSlicer. It's set to 60deg but when i import to the repetier the platform doesn't heat.

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On the ABS printing topic. I like to be able to print in both materials. both have strong points and i want to be able to explore this strong points with my printers. So i decide to make a cover for the Felix. Does anyone have a CAD file of the FElIX made? It would be VERY helpfull in the design and test of this project....
I'm thinking acrylic sheets (transparent to be able to see) and a system with a big door on the front ana small one on the left of the printer to be able to have some hand work space if needed.
What do you guys thing? Suggestions?!

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

I successfully print ABS on a insulated 70 degrees heated bed with a glass plate smeared with stick glue (Power pritt). this one: http://www.prittworld.co.uk/en/consumer ... stick.html not the regular Pritt.

I do use a large 1CM Brim on each printable object. Make sure the bed is calibrated tight to smear the first layer really into the heatbed. (I push the Z rod trough the steps to adjust it perfectly while printing)
Use a fillet knife to slice the printed object of the glass plate.

If you want to use a heat bed higher than 70 degrees, make sure you print a set of spare X carriage parts. PLA gets bendy on 60 degrees already and your carriage will probably get bended by the heat. You can also reflect the heat by aluminum foil.

Or just print a ABS Carriage. ABS is much more resistant against heat.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

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