E3D Extruder Upgrade

This is the place to show off your felix printer hacks and improvements.
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Shayne
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:36 pm
Location: North Queensland,Australia
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E3D Extruder Upgrade

Post by Shayne »

Designed the new extruder head final, it took some nutting out to make it as integrated as possible. I even managed to get an extra 6mm of Z distance.
Only thing I have found is the thermister is over reading a far bit from the old unit that came with the Felix, a couple of nozzle jambs later all figured out and printing nice. Need to get an infrared thermometer, k type bouncing around to much.

Extruder 1.jpg
Extruder exploded.jpg
WP_20140223_14_47_52_Pro[1].jpg

Saamec
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 9:28 am

Post by Saamec »

Handsome))) Well Done!!! All clear and very competently with the technical side. Very impressed with the fork mounting. Well done!!!

Shayne
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:36 pm
Location: North Queensland,Australia
Contact:

Post by Shayne »

So I have had some massive clogging issues with this head when starting to work it for real, but found some of the issues as follows.
PID calibration single biggest +
Putting my K type remote thermocouple into the head to check head temp (temp difference of 25dec C) Now making sure head is at 216-218 deg C(repeater host saying it is 246)
Print faster!!!!! the faster the material is printed the better the quality is getting. Seems the material is not getting the time to warm up and soften just above the hot part.
Air flow around lower part of the heat sink needs improvement, if the top end is to open bottom end ever so slightly lower flow and clogs.

seaton
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Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
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Post by seaton »

did you change the thermistor type in the firmware? this could explain why the temp is so different.
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

Shayne
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:36 pm
Location: North Queensland,Australia
Contact:

Post by Shayne »

Got all the temps sweet now, found the best thermister type to use was the one taken with hand held thermocouples. Still having jamming issues, made some big changes in the SFACT slicer settings, with much better results. Material seems to be a little bit of an issue as well. Have tried 2 suppliers for PLA here in Australia, one cheep the other expensive Aus made, both have issues. Any suggestions?

seaton
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Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
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Post by seaton »

Shayne wrote:Got all the temps sweet now, found the best thermister type to use was the one taken with hand held thermocouples. Still having jamming issues, made some big changes in the SFACT slicer settings, with much better results. Material seems to be a little bit of an issue as well. Have tried 2 suppliers for PLA here in Australia, one cheep the other expensive Aus made, both have issues. Any suggestions?
Would be interest to see who you're using in oz. I'm using Bilby CNC and haven't had any problems with their filament and I'm using both pla and abs. Just put another order in last week. I did have issues with filament from another supplier I tried only once. I can't remember the name but had so many issues with the white I had then I tried from Bilby and have stayed ever since
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

Shayne
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:36 pm
Location: North Queensland,Australia
Contact:

Post by Shayne »

WOW!!!!! Final seem to have it sorted!!!
3 different PLA materials from 3 different suppliers and all with what seems moisture issues. I have a post curing oven for cooking my carbon fibre parts we make. This oven is a very simple small tent with a bathroom heater, gets to 55deg C on low setting no problems. I put all the roll in there with a carbon part to see what would happen. The best quality print from the most troublesome roll! on the hardest replacement machine print the air duct. I cant recommend this simple solution highly enough.
I have 4 rolls from Bilby, 2 of the rolls were steam popping a fair bit, the reason I cooked the rolls.
2 rolls from Thing Lab, both Australian made material, hoping it would be better than the Chinese bilby stuff, but suffered a little again from moisture, oozing end at idle.
1 Original roll that came with the machine when I bought it second hand, this one was never stored so I new it was the worst for moisture issue.
Now.... I have material samples coming from Justin at 3D printer gear, some nylons, PLA and soon poly carbonate. He was good to talk to about printing different material, and things to look out for.

Shayne
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:36 pm
Location: North Queensland,Australia
Contact:

Post by Shayne »

The one good thing to come from having tempramental PLA, is getting the settings and calibrating relay well refined. Now the jamming has stopped!!! I have no stringing, no blobbing, well defined corners and good surface quality.
I have persisted with Skeinforge (SFACT) for its good slicing. Dealing with the interface sux though.

So the E3D head works really well, there just need to be some setting changes and most of all temperature re calibrations. PID tuning will make or break you with this up grade (along with Good Material)

dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Post by dognotdog »

I have found that some PLA very quickly becomes moist (glow in the dark blue, for example) while other colors are completely resilient, regardless of the manufacturer.

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
Contact:

Post by seaton »

Shayne wrote:WOW!!!!! Final seem to have it sorted!!!
3 different PLA materials from 3 different suppliers and all with what seems moisture issues. I have a post curing oven for cooking my carbon fibre parts we make. This oven is a very simple small tent with a bathroom heater, gets to 55deg C on low setting no problems. I put all the roll in there with a carbon part to see what would happen. The best quality print from the most troublesome roll! on the hardest replacement machine print the air duct. I cant recommend this simple solution highly enough.
I have 4 rolls from Bilby, 2 of the rolls were steam popping a fair bit, the reason I cooked the rolls.
2 rolls from Thing Lab, both Australian made material, hoping it would be better than the Chinese bilby stuff, but suffered a little again from moisture, oozing end at idle.
1 Original roll that came with the machine when I bought it second hand, this one was never stored so I new it was the worst for moisture issue.
Now.... I have material samples coming from Justin at 3D printer gear, some nylons, PLA and soon poly carbonate. He was good to talk to about printing different material, and things to look out for.
Great to hear, I wonder myself if the problems I had were moisture related. Photo of your drying arrangement?
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

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