My first 3D printer

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Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Re: My first 3D printer

Post by Trnquill »

aikx wrote:EDIT:
I tried plugging in and out the power cord but nothing.
Remove power cord AND USB cable to reset arduino.
That I did try. Connection to RAMPS board was never cut off, I could see the temperatures updating on the screen just fine. What was not working were the steppers, heating elements and fans. Then I unplugged all the cables and put them back again and I was able to resume connection to RAMPS (= see the updating temperatures). But still the components running from +12V and +5V lines were dead. I was already pulling the electronics box open to measure the currents and after that open the power supply to see if there was a fuse inside when I decided to plug in the power cord one list time. Lo and behold, it worked again. This left me confused!

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

As someone wanted to see what I use the 3D printer for here's an example.

http://fotoni.org/ilmasta/rinkularigi_2_6/

Image

All the plastic parts (block, spacers, pulleys, ...) are printerd with Felix 1.5. The gray PLA I had was not the greatest of filaments but did the job allright. The carbon fiber parts are CNC-milled on a small desktop machine.

If you're wondering what the heck that contraption is: it's a camera gimbal for aerial photography. :) Here's a quick demo:
http://youtu.be/BAP6q7Yzhb0

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei »

Hi Trnquill,

Great result and thanks for sharing! I never thought you would be using the printer for so many parts of the gimbal :) I love the way you have fastened the belt on the tilt axis. Do others do it the same way or do they use continuos belts of the correct length (that is what I remember having seen)?

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

Kjetilei wrote:I love the way you have fastened the belt on the tilt axis. Do others do it the same way or do they use continuos belts of the correct length (that is what I remember having seen)?
Thanks! I have never seen similar way of fixing the tilt belt. All the other gimblas use continuos belts as far as I know. But because the tilt axis can never do 360 and actually only 0-90 (plus some degrees extra) is needed there's no need for a continous belt. Same goes for roll, naturally. I use MSH Protos 500 tail belt for roll & tilt since it's readily available, it's cheap, has nice pitch (not too tight, not too wide) and is standard belt (there's plenty of ready made CAD models of different pulleys online). Of course I had to modify the ready CAD models of the pulleys, but I had good starting point with correct tooth profile and pitch.

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei »

I like the finish on the carbon fiber (I only notice a few tiny imperfections) and wonder what kind of CNC you use (sorry if you have mentioned it before)?

Have you posted info on your gimbal on rcgroups or another RC/arial photography site?

Is it intended for sale or is it an open hardware design?

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

The CNC is just a cheap Chinese desktop model, search for CNC 3040 and you'll find it. It does really good job for the price! There is some backslash and play but things work quite well in general. I had also some major trouble with the machine when I got it (some broken wires and such) but it has worked without a single failure for some time now. I usually cut only glass fiber and carbon fiber with it, ocassionally some plastics, too.

I have posted something about the gimbal in RCGroups some time ago (in summer) when I finished the first iteration of it.

The design is intended mainly for personal use but I also sell them in very limited manner. I manufacture all of them myself by hand so I don't want to do too many. I like to spend my time designing and prototyping new things, not sweat shopping some old design... ;)

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Wow nice project. What kind of servo's do you use? Some kind of sail-winch servo's?
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

satoer wrote:Wow nice project. What kind of servo's do you use? Some kind of sail-winch servo's?
Nope, standard RC servos. The only "catch" is they are modified for 360 rotation. Stabilization electronics of the gimbal sense position on all three axis and command the servos to move until desired position is achieved. Thus no position information in the servo is needed. You modify servos to 360 by removing the motion limiting pin from output gear and replacing the pot with two identical resistors.

The servos on that thing currently are Savöx 1258's. Nice and strong and fast.

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

Ok, I encountered yet another strange issue! All my dimensions are now way wrong in Z-direction! Everything is too tall! If I move the Z-axis to, say, 25mm it is actually about 32mm high.

Something happened between two successive prints; the first came out allright, the second came out way too tall. I didn't even turn off the printer in between, just printed the two parts back to back from SD card. Looking at the gcode I can see no difference in height between the parts so it must be something with the printer. But what could have messed up with the Z calibration right between two prints? All I did between them was turn the preheat on, then started the job. How to fix this?

I re-uploaded the Felix firmware printed the second part again. no luck! The part is still way too tall and a 6mm horizontal hole is an ellipse (6mm wide, 8,2mm tall). The Z calibration settings are in the firmware, right? Re-compiling & uloading it should bring all things back to square one? Why it didn't?

My Felix has now lost some or all of its configs three times. To me it looks like every time I move the axis by hand too fast things can go all wacky. Before I have been able to make things right by re-uploading the firmware but not this time.

What to do?

EDIT:
I tried changing the values in Configuration.h file DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. Third value changed from 2580,645 to 1290 and something. This had no effect!

EDIT 2:
Looks like the LCD module is overriding all the firmware settings. After hours of tinkering I finally realised to do "Restore failsafe" followed by "Save to memoru" on the LCD. After a reset things were back to normal! :) It doesn't help to have only three full digits for the steps/mm values in the LCD. Thus 2580.645 of Z axis steps per mm is in LCD screen just "580.64".

evanr
Posts: 101
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 3:09 am

Post by evanr »

Trnquill wrote:
aikx wrote:EDIT:
I tried plugging in and out the power cord but nothing.
Remove power cord AND USB cable to reset arduino.
That I did try. Connection to RAMPS board was never cut off, I could see the temperatures updating on the screen just fine. What was not working were the steppers, heating elements and fans. Then I unplugged all the cables and put them back again and I was able to resume connection to RAMPS (= see the updating temperatures). But still the components running from +12V and +5V lines were dead. I was already pulling the electronics box open to measure the currents and after that open the power supply to see if there was a fuse inside when I decided to plug in the power cord one list time. Lo and behold, it worked again. This left me confused!

TRNQUILL: I have a similar problem where I have to reset the ramps board to connect. In addition, temperatures were updating but steppers weren't functioning. Things just stopped printing mid print... steppers seemed paralyzed. Have you been able to figure out why?

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