Felixprinter 1.5: Pictures, Problems, Solutions and upgrades

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dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Re: Felixprinter 1.5: Pictures, Problems, Solutions and upgr

Post by dognotdog »

You seem to have a bad temperature sensor on the hot-end. Possibly it's not connected right?

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Well, went back to the aluminum plate + Kapton tape. The sanded glass worked great in the beginning, sadly the warping troubles began again. I think grease from the melted plastic got in the grooves and I couldn’t clean it with spiritus / thinner or acetone. Removed the glass plate and taped the aluminum plate in with Kapton. Now it works great, I degrease it every print with acetone. Maybe I should have used acetone the first time I tried Kapton.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

I use sanded glass (from a picture frame) and have had warping issues from day one. Parts seem to stick pretty well to the glass, they are extremely hard to remove when the bed is warm. Even small 2x2cm parts stick so well I think I would break the glass if I tore them up while bed is at working temperature (65°C). Soon after the print is finished there is this crackling sound and when the bed has cooled down about 15 degrees (to 40-45°C) the parts practically loosen themselves. But still edges of parts warp up. Even the smallest parts! Not by much but it's still visible.

I have sanded the glass progressively rougher and rougher. First I sanded it with number 400 wet sand paper but had major non-sticking issues. Then I went to 320 paper which made things better. Now I have sanded the glass with number 240 wet sand paper and I'm thinking of going even rougher.

The one and only thing that bugs me about Kapton is the marks tape edges leave to bottom of parts. Especially with the quite narrow tape supplied with printer kit. Wider (5+ cm) tape would be much better.

Has anyone tried some plastic as build platform? I'm thinking of polycarbonate or acrylic.

oregano
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 3:00 am

Post by oregano »

I agree with the tape edge marks issue.

I have just received a roll of 200mm wide Kapton tape (from ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200mm-X100ft ... 19d4803952). I'm going to see if this works effectively. I suspect that I'll have significant air-bubble issues - but it's worth a try.

Unfortunately, I can't find any wider stuff - so there will still be at least one join.

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill »

I know it's really messy and you should cover your electronics and rest of the printer really well, but I think you should definitely use soapy water to apply the Kapton. There's no other way to get a bubble free result. And with soapy water it is super simple. If you position the tape super accurately you'll have a join mark at very edge of the print area. Felix 1.5 has print area of 205mm in Y-direction.

I think I'll order a roll of that super wide Kapton, too, if it works well! Please do report back when you have tried it out.

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

20 CM wide sounds more than enough for me. :)
Great idea using soap water. Please let us know the results Trnquill.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

processware
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:43 pm

Post by processware »

Hi Folks, i hated the kapton tape stripes and the bubbles as wel, and after searching for a piece of glas i found an old box with 3M transparency film sheets for Colour Laser jet Printers (3M code CG3700) A4 size (210mm x 2970mm) and i have great results for now (maybe to soon to tell) Printer is one week old, so still in de progress for drawing and printing.

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer »

Are these sheets self-adhesive?
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei »

processware: Welcome to the forums :) How do you secure the transparency film to the hot bed?

I believe 20cm wide Kapton tape applied with soap water and using a Vinyl film applicator/plastic scraper would be a good solution.

I used soap water on my 5cm wide Kapton tape when I assembled my Felix and only ended up with some minor bubbles due to having to realign the tape several times (should not be a problem with 20cm wide tape) and no scraper available to force out the air bubbles.

Vinyl film applicators/plastic scrapers are available cheaply on Ebay or you could use a credit card or similar.

Crazy idea department for Kapton alternatives:
- Matte iPad screen protector
- Matte vinyl film used for cars

oregano
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 3:00 am

Post by oregano »

I successfully applied the Kapton tape (thanks for the soapy water trick - although it was still tricky on a warm day - it dried too quickly). Ended up with a few bubbles, but on the extremities not in the main print area.

Applied it from x=0 to x=200 and then added a strip of the narrow tape for x=200+.

Upside - No more lines !
Downside (and possible upside) - the prints really really stick - can be very difficult to remove !

For the cost (and despite it being tricky to apply) I'd recommend it - although I'm intrigued by the 3M transparency sheet solution.

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