ABS

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cx32
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:40 pm

ABS

Post by cx32 »

Having trouble making ABS to stick to my table. Tried to do a search multiple times on ABS and it returns NOTHING.

Manually scrolled thru various other post and found text ABS.

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
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Post by seaton »

Bed at 100DegC (insulate the bottom)
Glass Plate
GlueStik

I'm doing most of my work in ABS now on the felix and don't have any problems, intact ABS is my filament of choice at the moment
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

cx32
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:40 pm

Post by cx32 »

5 questions, I am a noob in 3D printing:
1, Glass Plate, have you changed your bed from the standard one or have you just placed a plate of glass over it?

2, Insulate bottom, insulate the bottom of the glass or heat bed?

3, GlueStik. please a bit of context would be helpful.

4, "Intact" filament, is intact a manufacturer or a special kind?

5, any other parameter change to the software to print besides 100DegC besides most ABS likes an hotter extruder temp 210c+

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
Contact:

Post by seaton »

cx32 wrote:5 questions, I am a noob in 3D printing:
1, Glass Plate, have you changed your bed from the standard one or have you just placed a plate of glass over it?

2, Insulate bottom, insulate the bottom of the glass or heat bed?

3, GlueStik. please a bit of context would be helpful.

4, "Intact" filament, is intact a manufacturer or a special kind?

5, any other parameter change to the software to print besides 100DegC besides most ABS likes an hotter extruder temp 210c+

1. No I had 6 sheets of 3mm thick glass cut to the same size as the bed with corners rounded and all edges made safe and just bulldog clip them on, that way I need to clean one, I just replace it with another, and also have spares if every I have one break. It cost me $36 for a local glazier for the lot, unfortunately they are just plain old glass, not special heat treated borosiliciate as they didn't normally stock it, but the plain glass works well and have not had any problems or breakeages...touch wood, and 3mm thickness is nice and solid.

2. I insulate the bottom of the Heated bed, else it will loose heat very easily and you probably won't get past 80Degc with the Felix as built from the kit or store. I just use a simple piece of Cardboard taped with Kapton tape and also helped by the bulldog clips I use for my glass, I think the cardboard I used was from a new kitchen appliance box that was the same size that was yogin to be binned, about 10 minutes work cutting and tapping, easy, and works well enough for what I want, others have suggested other insulation material, but for the price you can't go wrong.

3. GlueStik may be an Australian Brand, but is just simple stick of glue available at any stationary store, for craft and paper. Many different types, do a search on google images for "glue stick" and you'll see what I mean. I don't use any particular brand, just whatever the local stationary store has in stock. I just cover the area I will be printing in, not thick, after a few prints there is a bit of a crusty build up that can either be scrapped off, I just replace the glass plate and then wash under warm soapy water and put it back to be used again in the future.

4. Intact is an autocorrect from my Mac, sorry. I'm not using any special ABS, whatever I get from my suppliers. 220Deg is what I have my extruders set to for ABS, my Heated Bed is set to 110DegC, normally reaches about 105Degc. I will kick of my print when it's reaches about 95Degc, any earlier and I do see a tendency for more lifting. If my ambient temp if fairly cold it can take a while to reach, so I lay a towel or dish cloth over the top of the heated bed to retain the heat so it gets up to temperature quicker. I can forgo this pre-heat if I want, just speeds up the first print from a cold start.


One of the things I also do with my slicer, Simplify3D, for my ABS prints is to include a single height 4-6 pass brim on my parts at 0 distance, that way it also helps to keep down any potential lifts, very easy to trim this off after print is finished. I've been doing LOTS of these quad copter bases over the last week due to a beginner operator assisted crashes haha, all in ABS and have had no warp or lift at all (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:367532). Also printing is in a cold room where ambient can be down to 15-17DegC

I have no problems printing ABS with this printer using the above techniques, very rarely will I get some lift on the corners, but if I do it means I need to put down a little more of the Glue initially.
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

Surfer
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 4:15 pm

Post by Surfer »

Steven, i'm also working with simplify 3d but i'm having problems with Abs. Would you mind to,post your factory file to see what i'm doing wrong ?

seaton
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 9:04 am
Location: Bunbury, Western Australia
Contact:

Post by seaton »

Surfer wrote:Steven, i'm also working with simplify 3d but i'm having problems with Abs. Would you mind to,post your factory file to see what i'm doing wrong ?
done...this is for a dual head, but just remove the second extruder if your using a single extruder setup.

remember to do a thin wall calibration before using the profile, as its setup for my filament.
Attachments
felix3_ABS.zip
(2.1 KiB) Downloaded 47 times
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
Simplify3D Slicer, Kisslicer
Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

http://blog.strobotics.com.au

cx32
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:40 pm

Post by cx32 »

Thanks for the information and the full answers.

agentmulder
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat May 10, 2014 2:54 am

Post by agentmulder »

ok, tried my first ABS today, no glass or gluestick, just some cardboard I pulled out of the neighbours recycling and jammed under the bed for poops and giggles - interesting results...

Exact same g-code, smallish part with %50 infill - extruder, bed heat and fan operated manually in RH.

Part in PLA 195°/50°/fan on - lost traction on the kapton after about 5 layers
Part in ABS 235°/80°/fan off - didn't loose traction

No problems keeping that bed temp and it's winter down here.

Printed another ABS part and again, no issues with the part lifting, in fact, I felt I needed to turn down the bed... reason: with the fan off, when printing the first few layers the curvy skin fan duct thingy on a Felix 2.0 started to get soft and drooped on to the surface (!), to the point it was now below the extruder end level and was occasionally rubbing on the printed part.

I had to push it up and close the mouth with tweezers as the print continued, it stuck to itself and had two holes for a while, until it melted again and reformed into what is should be, it was then I put the fan on and cooled it directly.

Hrrrrm, so what's the deal with the nozzle fan with ABS?

Could have sworn I read that it wasn't the best thing to use, but here I am melting my printer :shock: Also had some places with small sections that could have used a bit of cooling/time between layers (haven't found that option in kisslicer yet).

killejano
Posts: 92
Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:23 pm

Post by killejano »

You should first print extruder parts from abs before your extruder sags and what not

agentmulder
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat May 10, 2014 2:54 am

Post by agentmulder »

They could be made from ABS in the first place?? :)

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